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Big Drum 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 650
Submitted By: BrianWS on May 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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In the thick of it

Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>


Large slopers and round holds pass three bolts to a ledge. Tall climbers (over 6 feet tall) can easily clip and pass the next two bolts, however shorter climbers require a bit of creative legwork in the large horizontal under the fourth bolt and small holds in between the big stuff.

In the original guidebook, written by a generation that is *far* shorter on average than the current crop of Taiwanese, this route was rated 5.11c/d. It has since been downgraded to 5.11b

In July, 2015, two Petzl Collinox (forged 304-steel) bolts simultaneously broke off while a climber was being lowered. The climber escaped with naught but a bruised butt. A truly historic event in local history...


Middle of the main face


Titanium (2016/17)

Photos of Big Drum Slideshow Add Photo
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BETA PHOTO: route topo
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Tiger eyes the business
Rock Climbing Photo: A climber cleaning the Middle Route above the crow...
A climber cleaning the Middle Route above the crow...

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By Matt Robertson
May 12, 2010

This route is named Big Canyon (‘å’J or da gu). Like many other routes at Music Hall, it is equipped with reliable glue-in bolts. 5.11b is a fair grade.
By Anmin Deng
From: Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Jan 14, 2011

The name "‘åŒÛ" ("da4-gu3") means "Big Drum", not "Big Canyon" (where "Drum" and "Canyon" sound identical ("gu3") in Chinese). Many routes in "Music Hall" are named after music instruments.
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Jun 29, 2014

As a shorter dude, the suggested beta for me was "grow" but after watching my taller partner tackle the crux with creative Leg-work, I used very similar methods to get past the ledge -- height may be a hindrance but certainly not an excuse on this climb.

However the fun doesnt stop there! Poor feet and small holds after the ledge mean sustained 11b action all the way to the anchors.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Jul 24, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The anchors broke off during a freak top-roping incident yesterday. Hopefully they'll be replaced soon. Otherwise, if you trust the bolts, you can climb the line and step right to the Fingercrack anchors at the top.
By BrianWS
Jul 24, 2015

Holy shit... Glad to hear the climber was ok.
If both anchor bolts broke, I wouldn't call it a "freak" accident. That's a pretty good indication of the quality for many other pieces of supposedly sound hardware from the big 2006 rebolt.

Has there been any movement towards installing titanium yet?
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Jul 24, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Hopefully everyone who climbs at LD knows that bolt failure is not a freak accident. It was just a silly turn of phrase. Some titanium has been installed (one for the anchor of Fingercrack, all the anchors at Euro Wall, and others) but many local "experts" have their doubts about its safety...
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Apr 18, 2017
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This route and those adjacent have been rebolted with titanium.

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