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Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
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Ain't No Puppy T 
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 
Big Dogs Variation T,S 
Deodorant T,S 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
Independent Worm Saloon T 
Rat Crack Direct T 
Revocation T 
Skin Tollbooth, The 
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 
Turd Burglar 
Walking on Paper T 
White Shores T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Big Dogs on the Prowl 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: J.Huggins, T. Hudgel, B. Gillett, & C. Greedy all contributed parts.
Season: Gets afternoon sunshine
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 4, 2009

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Description 

The climbing on the first pitch is difficult and cruxy on the lower half, and unabashed fun on the second half. Both are pretty safe leads.

Start down and right of the first bolt and climb a few feet to it on mellow moves, the clip and head up progressively steeper rock. Sidepull, gaston, undercling, and mantle through the crux section. Some slopers and small crips after the second clip give way to a tough semi-mantle move at the 3rd clip, and then it is rest, before casting off the ledge onto part 2. If you got the first half the second half will be no problem. Arrive at a bolted anchor with chains at 80 feet or so. The striking corner on the upper half is 10c and can be approached via a ledge scramble but is part of the single continuous pitch.

There is a second pitch I did not attempt that is also 12a, passing a single bolt and then up through a bouldery fingercrack (stoppers) and onward to second set of anchors.

The 3rd pitch One is 11d according to the book, but I did not inspect it.

Perhaps as someone climbs this, they can add the data for P2/P3.

Location 

To find the start of this route, head up the hill on the south face of the rock for perhaps 60 meters pas the low point at the corner where the Rock faces Northwestwardly. 3 bolts appear low on the face, 2 below a rather large bulge, and one just above the top of the bulge (12a). 4 more appear in a shallow dihedral above a ledge above this large wave of rock.

Protection 

For P1, 7 bolts, for P2 a bolt plus small cams and nuts, for P3, uncertain.


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