REI Community
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Route 66 T 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
South Face Direct T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Victim of Circumstance  T 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pat Ament & Carl Diehl, 1975
Page Views: 1,272
Submitted By: Tony B on May 27, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Find this climb as the 'tower' of rock protruding from the West Face of Castle Rock, just above Polyester Leisure Suit. This is visible at the right hand edge of the West face route in the attached photograph.

    Climb the Big Deal Pinnacle by doing the first pitch of another route, either Polyester Leisure Suit, or P1 of the West Face, or a crack system just left of Polyester, but right of the wide slot next to West Face. I suggest the latter of these options to cover more new territory it is perhaps 5.7 & protects well.

    After arriving at one of the two trees, both with anchors, climb up the center face of the pinnacle to access some cracks, or go to the right-hand side, and climb a perfect hands and wide-hands corner for 30' to reach a rising left-hand traverse at a horizontal. (This can be intercepted from the face below as well, apparently). From the left edge of this, move up the edge of the tower and cross back right on another rising traverse on a horizontal--both protect well enough to be safe, but could be exciting. Finish via cracks on the right side of the pinnacle or on the west slab to the summit.

    There is no good belay on the summit, but on the shoulder to the climber's right of it, there are cracks, blocks, horns, and a good belay seat.

    To descend, finish to the summit on the West Face and do the standard descent, or scramble down to the trees below (climber's left, a 5.6 or 5.7 downclimb) or to the anchors above Bailey's Overhang or Curving Crack (easier?). Then rap off with a single rope.


    A standard rack to 3.5" with extras in the hands to wide-hands sizes. Several long slings.

    Comments on Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By kyle lefkoff
    May 8, 2004
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Strappo and I climbed this handcrack/flare last fall. It's strenuous right at the top and it would help to have taped. Protection adequate.
    By George Bracksieck
    Jul 10, 2013

    Today, I led the 5.7 first pitch just right of the wide crack, then belayed at the right-hand tree. Then I led leftish up the middle of a short, blank face; made an unprotected step left; moved up a short, shallow crack; then hand-traversed to the right along the upper horizontal (heavily lichened and exciting, 5.9+). Then I climbed straight up a hand/fist crack through a overhang/bulge (5.9+) and up the right side of the pinnacle's summit block. If you instead do the handcrack, flare, gully, etc., straight up from the right-hand tree to the bulge crack, you will miss most of the best action. Ryan Watts led the third pitch up to the scramble-off.
    By George Bracksieck
    Jul 10, 2013

    Just looked in Rossiter's 1999 guidebook. I think we climbed the route as he describes it. D'Antonio's vague description may not disagree with Rossiter's. I interpret Bubb's and Lefkoff's path as going up the obvious crack above the right-hand tree, which is to the right of the way we went -- at least (maybe) until the hand/fist crack through the overhang/bulge near the top.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About