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Big Corner 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Burcham, John Mattson
Page Views: 3,987
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo for first to pitches on Big Corner


possible to lead the initial grunge 5.8pitch from the ground but preferred to rap in from Mars Attacks. Beautiful dihedral with finger locks and liebacking, crux is the endurance + a bit harder near the top, have fun!


located east of Mars Attacks (along rap from MA) and just right of Fear of a Red Planet


easily top roped while descending Mars Attacks, otherwise a triple set of tcu's should get you up.

Photos of Big Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the second pitch which begins 20 feet a...
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the second pitch which begins 20 feet a...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the route from the trail in.
View of the route from the trail in.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1, Big Corner...actually not a bad pitch.
Pitch 1, Big Corner...actually not a bad pitch.

Comments on Big Corner Add Comment
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By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 17, 2006

This was a fantastic climb that I recommend doing after climbing Mars Attacks. Less than vert corner that will be in the shade in the afternoon, is still tough and cruxes at the top. Various crack widths and some crimps on the face make this corner easier than your pure crack outing. The dirty first pitch didn't look worth doing at all.
By Bennett
From: Southern California
Dec 7, 2008

top roped this yesterday with two 70 meter ropes passing the knot for 180 foot pitch. awesome and varied... first pitch a bit loose and a bit run 5.9 if it were lead. Second would be sweet to lead and would protect well, has a bolt at the wide crux which is nice for directional when tr-ing. bolt anchors at about 120 feet from the ground for this pitch. all sizes in about 60 feet of climbing for pitch 2, bigger than fist to tips...

some big suspect blocks in a couple of spots to try to avoid on pitch one, and one i recall one just before the upper crux on pitch 2... full sun in the afternoon.

the rap anchors at the top of Big Corner are different than the rap for Mars Attacks, 30 feet and diagnally down to climbers left. pulling ropes might be hard if you rap to Big Corner anchor first...
By Justin York
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 11, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

To add to Bennett's comment, you can rap directly to the top of Big Corner's anchors, TR the bad boy, and pulling the ropes from the bottom was fine. Would be a well-protected lead although the rock is suspect on the first pitch. Second pitch is awesome and varied, with ample rests to eliminate any pump factor.
By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Jan 28, 2011

Really nice pitch! I felt the wide pod was the crux. The thin climbing happens right after it but there are great feet and crimps on the face. The first pitch is a bit spicy.
By Benjamin Smith
Apr 27, 2011

Awesome addition to Mars Attacks. It protects very well. Bring a #5, extra small pieces, and nuts if you want to sew it up.
By Ryan Z
Apr 7, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This is a sweet climb! I had singles of all the hand sizes up to #4, doubles of fingers, and having a green and red C3 are what protected the crux for me. Didn't need the #4 let alone a #5, there is bolt right there. Got the onsight!
By Kelsey Sheely
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 25, 2015

Got stuck behind a party of 7 trying to climb Mars Attacks and decided to go do this one from the bottom. The first pitch was completely reasonable by Sedona standards. There are a few loose blocks, but nothing too scary and not nearly as runout as I thought it would be. The second pitch is great! No need for big gear as there is a bolt protecting the wide spot.
By tim maloney
Jul 6, 2016

First ascent Tim Maloney and Michael Hill 11/93
By Dave Spies
From: Sedona, AZ
Nov 13, 2016

I think pitch one is fun/ interesting climbing and pretty clean. Didn't knock anything off or find anything loose. Pitch two is pure gold. Double bd cam .2 to 3 and one #4 is plenty. We did not venture into the land of aid above pitch 2. Has anyone freed the third pitch?
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Nov 14, 2016

Did this awesome route in late 90s/early 2000s; was fun to repeat so many years later. It's harder than it used to be! (Has nothing to do with being 60 now...). I agree with Dave: first pitch is GOOD: not loose or bad rock, well protected 5.9 Sedona adventure climbing. Very sunny; great on a cool blue sky day.

Pitch 2 is quite Creek-like. Great jams on 90%, short physical wide section, and finger-to-tips crux right at the end that protects well with 00, 0, & #1 TCUs.

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