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Paisano Peak
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Big Chimney TR 

Big Chimney 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Randell Beck, Shannon Allsup
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 23
Submitted By: Randell Beck on Jun 5, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Paisano Peak from the road

Description 

Scramble up the scree slope to the base of the cliff. Some minor 5.3-5.5 moves bring you to the base of the large chimney. Chimney up - it's shady and cool in there. At the top exit, it's a walk-up to the summit. Its high and has a view, but not particularly dangerous. We did not use ropes - we solo freed "together'. It was the kind of thing to get a teenager's heart pumping.

Location 

Route is up the main cliff face - there is only one. Scramble to the bottom and find the chimney. Walk down around the side of the cliff, or rappel the vertical face.

Protection 

Large nuts and cams, please. Big cracks, big openings. Hard Volcanic rock. There are large rocks to anchor.


Photos of Big Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peak and cliff from the camp
BETA PHOTO: Peak and cliff from the camp

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By Randell Beck
From: Westbury, NY
Jun 5, 2017

The cliff has many routes that could be climbed - we only had time to do one. We calimed it as a first because no one we asked had heard of anyone else doing it... but it's a low-quality claim LOLOLOLOL
By Randell Beck
From: Westbury, NY
Jun 6, 2017

Notes on the area and geology: texasmonthly.com/travel/on-the...

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