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Big Chick Hill

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Gully Wall, The 
Highway Robbery Buttress 
Left End and Left Face 
Lobotomy Buttress 
Main Face 
Oven Wall 
Rabbit Buttress, The 
Tower Buttress and Face 

Big Chick Hill Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.8285, -68.46456 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,124
Administrators: BDalhaus, Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Swartz on Apr 21, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Big Chick Hill from the Airline driving east. Yel...

Description 

As per "Rock Climber's Guide to Clifton Crags" by Jon Tierney

A keen eye will catch a glimpse of the rolling domes of Clifton to the Northeast from I-95 as you approach Bangor. The most striking of these is Big Chick Hill or Big Peaked Mountain as the mapmakers call it. This is Clifton's answer to North Conway's Whitehorse Ledge. As one gets closer, its Tuolumne like appeal is sure to get you psyched. A leisurely twenty minute walk through beech and maple forest brings you near the center of the cliff directly below the summit. To the left are a multitude of newly cleaned sport climbs in the 5.7 to 5.11 range. Several elegant slab lines are to the right including Overnite Sensation (5.8), Vacationland (5.9) and Maine Line (5.11).
The majority of Big Chick Hill routes are 5.8-5.10 and range from one to three pitches in length. For the moderate leader, My Time (5.6), is highly recommended. Well to the right and slightly downhill is the Oven Wall, your best choice for staying warm on cool days.
Sitting just west of Big Chick is Little Chick Hill. Although the climbing is negligible, there is a cool cave worth checking out if you are looking for a break from cragging. There is a vertical squeeze entrance and a walk-in horizontal entrance. See if you can find them.

Getting There 

From the Route 180 and 9 intersection, follow Route 9 east 4.3 miles. As you ascend a long hill, find a large gravel roadside pull-off on the left (north) side of the road. Park here and from the eastern end of the gravel, scramble around in the woods until you pick up a trail. After twenty minutes of gentle contouring the trail reaches the cliff near the route Vertical Sketchmaster (5.10b). To the left are several excellent seventy to ninety food sport climbs. To reach the Maine Face, traverse to the right along the cliff base.

Climbing Season

For the Clifton Crags area.

Weather station 11.8 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',6],['5.10',10],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Big Chick Hill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Big Chick Hill:
My Time   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 175'   Main Face
Buteo and the Beast   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   Left End and Left Face
Overnite Sensation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   Main Face
Black Beauty   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Left End and Left Face
Son of a Birch   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Tower Buttress and Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Big Chick Hill

Featured Route For Big Chick Hill
Rock Climbing Photo: a better shot of the starting overhang

Son of a Birch 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  ME : Clifton Crags : ... : Tower Buttress and Face
This striking crack is found on the right side of the buttress.It begins with a over hanging left leaning crack, that becomes a right trending finger crack once you've hucked the overhang.Takes gear like a champ, and is super fun. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Big Chick Hill Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Working left 6 of 6, just before the cliff turns v...
BETA PHOTO: Working left 6 of 6, just before the cliff turns v...
Rock Climbing Photo: Working left 5 of 6
BETA PHOTO: Working left 5 of 6
Rock Climbing Photo: Working left 4 of 6
BETA PHOTO: Working left 4 of 6
Rock Climbing Photo: Working left 3 of 6
BETA PHOTO: Working left 3 of 6
Rock Climbing Photo: Working left 2 of 6
BETA PHOTO: Working left 2 of 6
Rock Climbing Photo: From where the trail intersects the wall. Gully th...
BETA PHOTO: From where the trail intersects the wall. Gully th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topout of one of the main face routes
BETA PHOTO: Topout of one of the main face routes
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking across at the left side of the cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Looking across at the left side of the cliff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at first belay of My Time.  Ben's Balls...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at first belay of My Time. Ben's Balls...
Rock Climbing Photo: Main face right of Tower Gully.  The tree of Ignor...
Main face right of Tower Gully. The tree of Ignor...

Comments on Big Chick Hill Add Comment
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By jim.dangle
May 14, 2013
It's a mystery why more people don't climb here. There is ton of good quality, well-bolted moderates. The pitches are long and the rock is sheer and good quality leading to great exposure for single pitch climbs. Unfortunately these climbs are being reclaimed by the moss and lichen.

The climbing is better than Eagle's Bluff IMHO.

Jim