Big Chick Hill Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Big Chick Hill from the Airline driving east. Yel...
As per "Rock Climber's Guide to Clifton Crags" by Jon Tierney
A keen eye will catch a glimpse of the rolling domes of Clifton to the Northeast from I-95 as you approach Bangor. The most striking of these is Big Chick Hill or Big Peaked Mountain as the mapmakers call it. This is Clifton's answer to North Conway's Whitehorse Ledge. As one gets closer, its Tuolumne like appeal is sure to get you psyched. A leisurely twenty minute walk through beech and maple forest brings you near the center of the cliff directly below the summit. To the left are a multitude of newly cleaned sport climbs in the 5.7 to 5.11 range. Several elegant slab lines are to the right including Overnite Sensation (5.8), Vacationland (5.9) and Maine Line (5.11).
The majority of Big Chick Hill routes are 5.8-5.10 and range from one to three pitches in length. For the moderate leader, My Time (5.6), is highly recommended. Well to the right and slightly downhill is the Oven Wall, your best choice for staying warm on cool days.
Sitting just west of Big Chick is Little Chick Hill. Although the climbing is negligible, there is a cool cave worth checking out if you are looking for a break from cragging. There is a vertical squeeze entrance and a walk-in horizontal entrance. See if you can find them.
From the Route 180 and 9 intersection, follow Route 9 east 4.3 miles. As you ascend a long hill, find a large gravel roadside pull-off on the left (north) side of the road. Park here and from the eastern end of the gravel, scramble around in the woods until you pick up a trail. After twenty minutes of gentle contouring the trail reaches the cliff near the route Vertical Sketchmaster (5.10b). To the left are several excellent seventy to ninety food sport climbs. To reach the Maine Face, traverse to the right along the cliff base.
Climbing Season For the Clifton Crags area.
Weather station 11.8 miles from here
28 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Big Chick Hill
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Big Chick Hill
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Big Chick Hill:
Featured Route For Big Chick Hill
BETA PHOTO: Working left 6 of 6, just before the cliff turns v...
BETA PHOTO: Working left 5 of 6
BETA PHOTO: Working left 4 of 6
BETA PHOTO: Working left 3 of 6
BETA PHOTO: Working left 2 of 6
BETA PHOTO: From where the trail intersects the wall. Gully th...
BETA PHOTO: Topout of one of the main face routes
BETA PHOTO: Looking across at the left side of the cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at first belay of My Time. Ben's Balls...
Main face right of Tower Gully. The tree of Ignor...
May 14, 2013
It's a mystery why more people don't climb here. There is ton of good quality, well-bolted moderates. The pitches are long and the rock is sheer and good quality leading to great exposure for single pitch climbs. Unfortunately these climbs are being reclaimed by the moss and lichen.
The climbing is better than Eagle's Bluff IMHO.