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Big Bull 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Don Bell, Lance Blanco
Page Views: 2,686
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Dec 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Sharon at the Crux of the "Bull" in 90 d...


Start in corner near right end of wall, just right of a large flake at the base of the cliff. Climb thin moves 12' to lieback and difficult bulge protected by bolt. Traverse left on ledge and climb bolts up to large flake. Lieback flake for 15' and exit right to small ledge.

Easier climbing for 20 feet leads to more thin moves below two bolt anchor. Fun and pumpy!


60 meter rope is necessary to lower off! Quickdraws and extensions for anchor.

Photos of Big Bull Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rattler near the base of "Big Bull," so ...
Rattler near the base of "Big Bull," so ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Paul Crowder.  Rusty Reno just off the gr...
Photo by Paul Crowder. Rusty Reno just off the gr...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 15, 2016
By bw1
Nov 28, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

one of the neater routes in that area. it wouldn't be a bad idea to put an extension on bolt #2.
By bw1
Nov 30, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

i mean extensions on bolts 1 and 2
By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think climb is great fun. I don't remeber having a prob with rope-drag with normal quckdraws on all the bolts. Needless to say reg quicks were fine for me both times I climbed it. I seem to remeber a large loose block between the 1st and second bolts. Not sure if that ever had potential for actually coming off but be aware and keep your belayer out of the way just in case!!
By Wes Turner
From: az
Feb 16, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 7, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is one of the more fun climbs for this area. It is quite a climb up to the first bolt which will keep the leader on their toes. After that it is well bolted fun climbing. As some others have mentioned, be sure to have a 60m rope or you will find yourself downclimbing a bit.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jul 22, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Ground and ledge fall potential, solid 10c moves at bulge.
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
May 30, 2006

The 1st. clip shouldn't be a problem for a strong 5.10 climber! Have a good spotter or stick clip the 1st. bolt if this is your thing.. Fun climb with a lot of variety and worth repeating..
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Dec 16, 2007

Start at the far right with the high first bolt. At the ledge where there are 3 bolts in a row, Big bull takes the middle one. The new 11's take the other bolts in the row. You can follow big bull by the older style boles with the screw heads rather than nuts.
By Chelsea Cook
Oct 12, 2008

I heard someone just went back and put in a lower first bolt. Anyone know if this is true? I haven't been out there yet to check it out.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I was there yesterday and didn't notice any bolting changes.
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Feb 18, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first bolt on this climb is entirely reasonable, IMHO. This climb is great fun, and a good warmup for the two to the left of it.
By Jimbo
Mar 19, 2010

Dean and I lead this route on gear years ago. We're gonna chop it.

Just kidding, it is very safe on gear... for real. All you tradical types should try it.
From: tucson, az
Dec 18, 2011

Now has Mussy hooks at anchors
By Nick Henscheid
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 22, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route, one 10b/c move and the rest is 10a. Nasty landing zone below the first bolt, so I opted for the stick clip. Excellent view from the top as well!

  • Edit 1/17: if you follow the correct line - which is to cross over Grid Iron and continue up the left bolt line, it's 10a all the way. If you link Big Bull - Grid Iron, it goes at about 10c.
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Mar 15, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

One can protect the opening moves with a blue alien (if starting below the bolt, not in the dihedral more to the right), though, the climbing is pretty straight forward to the first bolt. Fun route.

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