|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||nicholas bujak on Feb 10, 2010|
|PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Big Bruno||Add Comment|
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By Tim Heid
Apr 21, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Another great route on Bark's Canyon Wall! This one seems less traveled than others and the route could use a few more ascents and it will clean up nicely.
Beta(To add to the description):
Pitch 1: 100' 5.8 Start in a large stem box with twin cracks running up it. Climb upwards using both cracks and pull some fun, steep moves on good jams and jugs. Continue up as the cracks widens and gain a ramp on the left. Belay at 1 solid old bolt and with smaller gear(C4 .5-.75).
Pitch 2: 110' 5.9 The crux pitch. Face climb to a hand crack in the middle of 3 cracks and an OW on the right. Place a large piece and move out left, making the crux moves to get established into the flaring hand crack. Move up for 20' to where the angle eases off and then traverse 15' left to meet up with The Long Lead. Face climb past the right side of the large roof. Clip a old pin and follow cracks to a large sloping ledge. Comfortable belay on 2 solid old bolts.
Pitch 3: 60' 5.6 Go up the chimney on the left. Surmount the boulder on the outside after clipping the webbing around it. Continue up past a few more fun moves to the belay. Belay wherever among the boulders.
Alternate Pitch 3: 90' 5.6 A heady option, but more fun as well. Do the R face climb straight up the arete on the right. Climb past a bolt at 30' to a fixed pin another 40' above that. Traverse out right placing a few medium to large pieces. LB the flake to top.
Descent: Walk straight back and up on 3rd class terrain to a 50' rap (webbing around a chockstone) down into the Mystic Grotto.
Rack: 1x nuts(offsets work wonders), 1x blue MC-Red MC, 2x #.5 C4-#2, 1x C4 #3-#4. (We didn't have a #4 and it was okay, but would've appreciated it for the crux). Lots of single and a few double length slings.