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Big Bruce 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Beh, Bob Ratliff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 734
Submitted By: Chris Beh on Oct 22, 2014

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My dear old dad, who made it to 92, when he was 20...

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  • Description 

    This route is dedicated to my recently passed 92 year old father, Bruce Beh. He got me into the mountains.

    The start of the route is uphill, left of Raging Bull, next to a small cluster of evergreen trees.

    The route consists of two, tricky 5.12a cruxes separated by a decent rest. The upper crux is a bit tougher than the first and finishes with some pumpy moves on big holds above the final roof to the anchor.

    Easy 5.9 moves lead to a roof the first crux. Once above the roof, you will get big holds on a flake and a rest under a bulge. Getting over the bulge, up to the next roof, is the harder 12a section.

    Location 

    This is on the far left side of the SW Face just around the corner, to the right, from where Deserted Cities Of The Heart is located on the West Face and left of Raging Bull.

    Protection 

    10 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor with chains.


    Photos of Big Bruce Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Levinson at the first crux of Big Bruce and on...
    Dan Levinson at the first crux of Big Bruce and on...
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux move.
    At the crux move.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Ratliff above the first crux.
    Bob Ratliff above the first crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Good rest below the first roof.
    Good rest below the first roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bruce, 5.12a.
    BETA PHOTO: Big Bruce, 5.12a.

    Comments on Big Bruce Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Beh
    Oct 23, 2014

    Here is a video of the first red point of Big Bruce.

    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 9, 2014
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    Another high-quality Chris Beh addition to Flatiron sport climbing. Maybe Chris’ best route to date; Big Bruce, named in dedication to Chris’ Dad, Bruce Beh, has all the requirements of a great route: position, length, quality movement, and a building pump with the crux high on the route. Hard to grade due to the many rests, probably 12a/b for an onsite grade. Rock quality is surprisingly good, which cannot be said about the neighboring lines.
    By Rui Ferreira
    From: Longmont, CO
    Aug 9, 2015
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Good addition to the cliff, excellent climbing. First overhang felt more difficult and is significantly longer than the second overhang as it really is not over until you are stabilized on the resting flake. There is one last tough section with a big move right at the very top just before the anchors.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Oct 25, 2015
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Excellent, fun climbing on a continuously steep route! Though the two 12- roof cruxes are powerful with less than obvious sequences, the final 11+ big reach at the top is probably the redpoint crux due to accumulated fatigue by that point. Nice job, Chris!

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