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Northwest Face
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Big Boys Don't Cry T 
Crying Time Again T 
Direct Northwest Face T 
Edgeumacated T,S 
John Henry T 
Mega Bleam S 
Northwest Books T 
Sandbag T 

Big Boys Don't Cry 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Kevin Leary, Ricky Wheeler and Dennis Philips 1975
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 18, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Last pitch. Photo by Wes Holmes.

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Description 

Maybe not as classic as Crying Time Again, but good nonetheless. If the marginal pro on the last pitch is too daunting one can easily escape right on the big ledge.

Pitch 1 - poorly protected 5.8 climbing past one bolt to a single bolt and gear belay.

Pitch 2 - steep, well protected climbing past three bolts(5.10a). Higher up a fourth bolt leads to a small ledge where you belay.

Pitch 3 - climb up on knobs and edges past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Crying Time Again comes in from the left, make sure you head up and right to the belay.

Pitch 4 - climb more or less straight up past two bolts to the big ledge which cuts across the face. There are some big knobs up there!

BITD, we used to combine pitches 3 & 4 into one, long rope stretching 180' pitch when the longest ropes we had were 165'!

Pitch 5 - climb up and right past a couple of pieces of fixed protection(5.10c) then head straight to the top.

Location 

This route lies to the right of Crying Time Again and left of the Direct Northwest Face. Follow the 3rd class cracks which share the start with the Direct Northwest Face. Head up and left from the cracks to begin the route.

Walk off the top of Lembert Dome on ledges on the south face.

Protection 

The climb is almost entirely bolt protected. Bring a rack up to 2" for the belays.


Photos of Big Boys Don't Cry Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Yay!!! Tyler found the one and only lead bolt/pro ...
Yay!!! Tyler found the one and only lead bolt/pro ...

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By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Jun 29, 2016

IIRC the runout last pitch goes straight up the face (?) and the relatively safe corner is a variation (one move of 5.10) with good pro.

The main route is full value Tuolumne run outs for sure on steepish knobs but has seams and ledge like features for rests, yet still 5.9 a good distance above the bolts. Falling is not optional really...Crying Time Again is a great route for some safe exercise. Big Boys more of a full value rock climb that is a different cup of tea and I must say, made the summit a lot more special.

A vote for leaving some challenge in our sport.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Aug 4, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

i would give this 3 stars if the rock quality was a little better. runouts and friable flakes don't mix well. better stick with the knobs and solid edges.
P1 - THE bolt is hard to find, hopefully the pic will help others avoid wandering around endlessly
P2 - i thought this was hard for 10a. the crux is the most well protected part of the entire climb. that said, if you fall before clipping the 3rd bolt you're still going for a 30'+ ride. we did not see a fourth (upper, last) bolt.
P3 - probably the easiest pitch, you get some solid small gear and a couple of bolts
P4 - technically about the same as P3 (not hard for 5.9), but only 2 bolts on the entire pitch
P5 - two bolts with the potential for a lot of rope drag and decking after the 2nd bolt (crux). at the 2nd bolt tyler went left, up, then back right to the crack. imho a good choice if you're leading. i went straight up at the 2nd bolt and blew a right foot when part of a thin flake crumbled. 2nd try, same thin flake and some funky upside down sloping move got me to better holds. if you do this on lead and fall you will crater...

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