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Big Bob's Big Wedge
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Big Bob's Big Wedge 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Trad, Boulder, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Mike Lechlinski
Page Views: 5,658
Submitted By: JNE on Dec 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Big bob's


This is one of the best crack problems anywhere. It starts out tight offwidth/big fists and fires out the slightly rising roof for thirty+ more feet of hands and fists, culminating in a wide exit that people overcome with various techniques probably mostly dependent on their hand size. The last moves can be committing.

This should be on every wide-crack climber's tick list for Joshua Tree. The 5.11 rating is what's given in the Vogel guide, while the V5 is what's given in the bouldering guide (That guy also only gave it three out of five stars. Guess he doesn't do much crack bouldering). Personally I would lean toward the V5 end of things, which would approximately translate to a YDS grade of 5.12. Absolutely spectacular!


Park at Live Oak near the oak tree and head down into the little valley on the other side of the formation. Big Bob's Big Wedge is under the huge unmistakable boulder nestled at the base of one of the formations.


A couple of pads/spotters are nice, especially if you leavitate the lip, as you will be upside down a ways off the ground and it's easy for your feet to get stuck and your too far away from your spotters for them to help you.

Photos of Big Bob's Big Wedge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bobs Big Wedge, Joshua Tree National Park
Big Bobs Big Wedge, Joshua Tree National Park
Rock Climbing Photo: brian attempting the amnesia onsite
brian attempting the amnesia onsite
Rock Climbing Photo: Kicking up into the crux.  Photo by Jason Kruk.
Kicking up into the crux. Photo by Jason Kruk.
Rock Climbing Photo: Not even close.
Not even close.
Rock Climbing Photo: bobs6
Rock Climbing Photo: bobs5
Rock Climbing Photo: bobs4
Rock Climbing Photo: bobs3
Rock Climbing Photo: bobs2
Rock Climbing Photo: bobs

Comments on Big Bob's Big Wedge Add Comment
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Dec 22, 2006

Any of you older cranksters want to fill us in on the name for this one?
By Russ Walling
Apr 11, 2007
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  V5 6C

Let's see... Big Bob..... hmmm.... figure that out on your own..... Big Wedge.... British slang right from Jerry Moffatts lips.... "wedge" is the same as "penis".... so, there ya go.

You can also hang a toprope cord at the lip and have someone clip you in when you get there to protect the lip encounter should things go bad (as they probably will)
Apr 16, 2007

Thanks Russ. I always wondered about the name because it is peculiar and I figured it had some slightly hidden meaning. Really awesome problem, right up there with The Crack House IMO. Still can't believe the bouldering guide gives it three out of five stars, what blasphemy.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Jan 14, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  V5 6C

First 26 feet are cruiser. Last 4 are horrendously difficult. All 30 deserve every star they can get.
By Michael Levato
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  V5+ 6C+

its not necessary to get inverted to top this one out
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Jul 20, 2014

Here is a video of climbing from the start to the offwidth and dropping off. I've aid climbed the offwidth and set a toprope to clip into when you get to the lip and it's great fun trying to turn the lip. I've gone inverted, inverted and in the splits, I've tried to hand stack, armbar and chicken wing but this climb is just too mighty for me. Still, it's rewarding just to climb to the lip.

Climbing Big Bobs Big Wedge here

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