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River Wall II
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arresting Arete S 
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 
Big, Big, Monkey Man T 
Box, The T,TR 
Brother From Another Planet S 
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 
Introducing Meteor Dad S 
Le Diamant E'ternal S 
Livewire T,S 
Neurosurgeon T 
New Horizon S 
Pocket Hercules T 
Redneck Hero S 
Surround Sound  S 

Big, Big, Monkey Man 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,673
Submitted By: richard magill on Apr 28, 2002

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CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great pumpfest just left of Redneck Hero. It probably deserves a full three stars, but I gave it only two because the stone at the very top is a bit suspect - not as good as Redneck. However, as long as the holds stay put, it is a killer line.

To do this line, cross the creek on the upstream side of the cliff. Once you get to the wall, follow little ledges out as far right as you can go - this is the start of Pocket Hercules. Climb Pocket Hercules for 30 feet or so (requires gear) until you reach the first bolt.

The route then trends right up the overhanging wall, involving big reaches to mostly good holds.

It is totally fun - a solid letter grade harder than Redneck and every bit as cool.

The second bolt has a very rusty hanger on it - if anyone reading this does this line, take a new hanger with you and post an update here when it is replaced.

Protection 

You place gear for about 30 feet, then you clip 5 bolts to the anchors. The specific gear recommended is: a couple of #1.5 Friends, a couple of small nuts, and maybe a large stopper.


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By Damon Vaughan
Dec 7, 2015

This is a super cool route, in my opinion every bit as good as Redneck Hero. The crack climbing is not too difficult, then you get a sweet transition onto the bolted face and pumpy climbing above. Be warned that the bolts and hangers are in need of replacement - I did not feel too good about falling on them.