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River Wall II
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Arresting Arete S 
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Big, Big, Monkey Man T 
Box, The T,TR 
Brother From Another Planet S 
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 
Introducing Meteor Dad S 
Le Diamant E'ternal S 
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Pocket Hercules T 
Redneck Hero S 
Surround Sound  S 

Big, Big, Monkey Man 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Paul Piana, 1985
Page Views: 3,032
Submitted By: richard magill on Apr 28, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Looking down at high water.

CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is a great pumpfest just left of Redneck Hero. It probably deserves a full three stars, but I gave it only two because the stone at the very top is a bit suspect - not as good as Redneck. However, as long as the holds stay put, it is a killer line.

To do this line, cross the creek on the upstream side of the cliff. Once you get to the wall, follow little ledges out as far right as you can go - this is the start of Pocket Hercules. Climb Pocket Hercules for 30 feet or so (requires gear) until you reach the first bolt.

The route then trends right up the overhanging wall, involving big reaches to mostly good holds.

It is totally fun - a solid letter grade harder than Redneck and every bit as cool.

The second bolt has a very rusty hanger on it - if anyone reading this does this line, take a new hanger with you and post an update here when it is replaced.


You place gear for about 30 feet, then you clip 5 bolts to the anchors. The specific gear recommended is: a couple of #1.5 Friends, a couple of small nuts, and maybe a large stopper.

Photos of Big, Big, Monkey Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Big, Big, Monkey Man.
BETA PHOTO: Big, Big, Monkey Man.
Rock Climbing Photo: New glue-in.
BETA PHOTO: New glue-in.

Comments on Big, Big, Monkey Man Add Comment
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By Damon Vaughan
Dec 7, 2015

This is a super cool route, in my opinion every bit as good as Redneck Hero. The crack climbing is not too difficult, then you get a sweet transition onto the bolted face and pumpy climbing above. Be warned that the bolts and hangers are in need of replacement - I did not feel too good about falling on them.
By Gregger Man
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 17, 2017

The 5 lead bolts have been replaced as of 6/17/2017 with glue-in bolts.
They were relics:
Rock Climbing Photo: Relics from Big, Big, Monkey Man.
Relics from Big, Big, Monkey Man.
From: Denver Colorad
Jun 17, 2017

This route now sports 5 brand new Petzl, stainless steel, glue-in bolts. Greg German with my help removed all the old bolts and using the same holes for the new bolts. Can't wait to get on this climb once the white water at the base is gone!

For gear there are 3 fixed stopper one overcamed 0.75 BD Camolot, 2 red totem aliens and five bolts plus a two bolt anchor I recommend longer draws on the anchor. Putting a singe length runner/sling on the second bolt will make it run a lot cleaner and will help a lot with rope drag. Enjoy
By Mark Rolofson
Jun 27, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Thanks to Angus & Greg for replacing the old 3/8" diameter bolts placed in 1985 on this route. This is one of the best overhanging 5.12b routes on the Front Range. Great pump & friendly holds. It was an old favorite of mine that I climbed in 1987 & last repeated in November 1990.

First ascent: Paul Piana in 1985 This route was one of a new generation of rappel bolted climbs in the 1980s. 1985 saw the first ascents several rappel bolted climbs including Paris Girls in Eldo (5.13a R/X), Razor Hein Stick (.12c) in Boulder Canyon, Alex In Wonderland (5.11c/d) on the Old Stage Wall, & Big, Big Monkey Man. These routes aren't sport climbs, but they all have that have that similarity to some degree. Once you reach the 1st bolt on Big, Big Monkey Man, it is a sport climb from there to the finish. Perfect gear up Pocket Hercules to start.

To start the route, we would always set up a semi-hanging belay, with stoppers, on the small ledge at the base of Pocket Hercules. Lap coil the rope, & hang it from the anchor to keep it out of the river.

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