Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Big Bend Butte

Select Route:
Clearlight T 
Infrared T 

Big Bend Butte Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 4,527
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 19, 2003
Forecast:
Tonight

26°
Saturday

46° | 33°
Sunday

43° | 30°
Monday

46° | 31°
Tuesday

46° | 30°
Wednesday

46° | 30°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
BETA PHOTO: The route shown by the blue arrows might be a high...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Big Bend Butte is the mesa immediately left of Dolomite Spire and the Lighthouse Tower, when viewed from the road. There are quite a few routes on the formation, the best of which are the Jay Smith beauties Infrared (5.12-) and Clearlight (5.11+ R).

Getting There 

Park at the Buffalo Chip Boulder (a large boulder immediately across from the towers). Cross the street and find a cairned climbers' trail to the base of the Lighthouse Tower. Head along the base of Lighthouse and Dolomite to the Butte.

Climbing Season

For the River Road area.

Weather station 4.2 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Big Bend Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Big Bend Butte:
Clearlight   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Infrared   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Big Bend Butte

Featured Route For Big Bend Butte
Rock Climbing Photo: Clearlight 5.11 PG13***

Clearlight 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13  UT : Moab Area : ... : Big Bend Butte
An unsung classic. Pitch 1- 5.10 climbing with a little bit of everything thrown in. Loose and silty in places but really engaging, worthy climbing that ends at Metolius rap hangers at a nice stance. (120 ft) Pitch 2- a wild traverse left(about 40 ft)from the belay past a couple of excellent bolts, with a few natural gear placements as well... when you reach the off-fingers crack(the route's crux), climb on up. This pitch also ends at some nice steel anchors- 5.11 PG-13(70-ish feet). Pitch 3- Th...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Big Bend Butte Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit View
Summit View
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire from the wall ab...
Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire from the wall ab...

Comments on Big Bend Butte Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -