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Big Balls In Cowtown T 
Duet T 
High Anxiety  T 

Big Balls In Cowtown 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Rodman
Season: Shade after mid-morning
Page Views: 553
Submitted By: J. Snyder on Sep 28, 2013

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Jeff Snyder and Big Balls in Cowtown 5.12-R, Parad...

Description 

Big Balls In Cowtown is a unique and varied route in the Forks norm. It features exciting technical face and a steep fingers finish on an isolated buttress amongst other obscurities.

Not as runout as its neighbor to the north, the gear is good just non existent for the first 20ft off the ledge. A lucky jump back to the belay could be an option?

From the belay ledge step left through some wobble blocks and onto the clean face. Climb the unprotected technical face to the first sign of gear. Climb through a boulder problem to a mini-ledge. After a rest continue up the left leaning and steep boulder problem finish. Sporty.

Location 

Start on a comfortable sized ledge 20ft off the ground; 15ft left of High Anxiety. Look for the clean face on a warping buttress.

Protection 

Belay: .75 C4 x2

Gear used:
.75 C4 w/48" runner at belay
Grey #000 C3
#4 brass offset
Purple #00 C3 12" runner
Green #0 C3 12" runner
.3 C4 24" runner
Red #1 C3
.4 C4


Photos of Big Balls In Cowtown Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Balls In Cowtown Photo: T.Hastie
Big Balls In Cowtown Photo: T.Hastie
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Balls In Cowtown Photo: T.Hastie
Big Balls In Cowtown Photo: T.Hastie
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo: T.Hastie
Photo: T.Hastie

Comments on Big Balls In Cowtown Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Sep 28, 2013

For the real nerds... here is a short video, featuring the FA, that Tamara Hastie made for Forks Fest 2013.
By Paul Davidson
Oct 17, 2013

Sweet...
looks harder than 12- though...
How many 12- have you done that make you want to puke?
(that weren't OW anyway)
By Floater
From: Flagstaff AZ
Sep 25, 2014

Not trying to burst anyone's bubble here, but this route is called Big Balls in Cowtown and was put up around 1999 by Rodman and Bloom. It had never been recorded before, so I don't blame anyone for thinking this was an undone route. You have a great eye for new lines Jeff!
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Sep 25, 2014

I actually just learned of this fact. No bubbles bursted, credit where credit is due. Damn Rodman, beast mode way ahead of his time! Setting the bar so high... Ive been chasing his standard since my first leads in Flagstaff. Best part is that I was in 6th grade when this thing got sent! That is just mind blowing... Let me guess, call it .11-?? Fucking Beast.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2014

People have been climbing that grade since the 70's....12- R that is.