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Big Bad Wolf 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: L. Gallia, E. Allen, D. Young
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 57,865
Submitted By: D Young on Oct 22, 2011

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Leading the first pitch at Big Bad Wolf!

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Big Bad Wolf 

Big Bad Wolf is a 4 pitch sport route 30 ft left of Physical Graffiti. Scramble up the gully that leads to Riding Hood for about 20 ft. The route starts on a flat sloping rock (which slid down the gully about 5 ft in Oct 2015 during really heavy rains).

P1 – 5.9, 8 b’s, 70 ft, for the most part is a jug haul on vertical desert varnish, 2 chained anchors.
P2 – 5.8, 8 b’s, 80 ft, Red Rock slab climbing with a thin crux midway, 2 chained anchors.
P3 – 5.8, 8 b’s, 70 ft, the slab soon turns vertical with more large holds to the finish, 2 chained anchors.
P4 - 5.0, 2 b's w 2 bolt anchor, no rappel rings, 30 ft, mini-pitchette for those wanting to walk off climbers left and safely get to the walk off ledge. Look up and right for the 1st bolt. Pitch is shaped like a crescent moon up and right. Anchor is directly above P3 chains.

Pitches 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 can be combined with a 60m rope and 17 draws, or combine all 3 pitches with a 70m rope and 26 draws.

Descent Options:

Preferred Descent: Walk off climbers left: climb P4 to arrive at the walk-off ledge, being very careful with all of the loose rock on the ledges. Continue south east (climbers left) until you see the gully with the tree in it and descend.

Or scramble right to the standard Phys Graf rappel and gully walk off.

Photos of Big Bad Wolf Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Dan Young
BETA PHOTO: Photo by Dan Young
Rock Climbing Photo: Lynda G. leading P2
Lynda G. leading P2
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch starts with some slap and then moves to ...
3rd pitch starts with some slap and then moves to ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Big Bad Wolf - April 13, 2017
BETA PHOTO: Climbers on Big Bad Wolf - April 13, 2017
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from the descent
Taken from the descent
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber in blue on B B Wolf, climber in white at 1...
Climber in blue on B B Wolf, climber in white at 1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bad Wolf
BETA PHOTO: Big Bad Wolf
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bad Wolf P1
Big Bad Wolf P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Ali and I at the top of Big Bad Wolf
Ali and I at the top of Big Bad Wolf
Rock Climbing Photo: Vegas in the distance
Vegas in the distance
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan from Minnesota and friend from Arizona start...
Megan from Minnesota and friend from Arizona start...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wes following pitch 1 of Big Bad Wolf. Dick belayi...
Wes following pitch 1 of Big Bad Wolf. Dick belayi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bad Wolf, P3
Big Bad Wolf, P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. D leading pitch 2.
Mr. D leading pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the middle of the 3rd pitch.  Ph...
Looking down from the middle of the 3rd pitch. Ph...
Rock Climbing Photo: bad draw
bad draw
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt following up the steep headwall on P3.
Matt following up the steep headwall on P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt coming up the fun sloper finish on P3 just ab...
Matt coming up the fun sloper finish on P3 just ab...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of pitch 3.
View from the top of pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bad Wolf, pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Big Bad Wolf, pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Super fun route!
Super fun route!
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrea following up the second pitch. Very slabby!
Andrea following up the second pitch. Very slabby!
Rock Climbing Photo: View from top of pitch 2.
View from top of pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bad Wolf, P3
Big Bad Wolf, P3

Show All 37 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Big Bad Wolf Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 18, 2017
By slacker Barker
From: North Conway NH
Oct 23, 2011

Climbed this new route today. Once the second pitch cleans up it will be a very nice climb. The route can be rapelled with one 60. A big thanks to those who put in the time money and effort!!!
By Mostafa Noori
From: Fresno, CA
Oct 25, 2011

This was my first multipitch route ever and it was awesome! Thank you for creating!
By Sue B
From: Henderson, NV
Oct 30, 2011

Nice climb. :) Glad to see more moderate multi-pitch sport routes being developed in Red Rock. Beware of fragile flakes.

Beta from Dan: 3 pitches, 8 bolts per pitch with chain anchors. Each pitch is roughly 75 ft. All bolts and chains are painted brown. 3 raps with 1 60m rope, 2 raps with 2 60m ropes, 1 rap with 2 70m ropes. Or walk off climbers left or descend climbers right using the Phys Graf rap and gully route. It is possible to combine pitches 1 & 2 or pitches 2 & 3 with a 60m rope. The long pitch would require 17 draws. It is possible to combine all pitches with a 70m rope and would require 26 draws. Start is 30 ft left of Physical Graffiti just up the hill side. Start at a sloping flat rock.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Oct 30, 2011

This route will likely get harder as holds break off.

By Lynda Gallia
From: Las Vegas
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very well protected route.. fantastic to have more sport multi pitches in the moderate category... I did not break any holds but be aware especially on the first pitch. Rappel with one 60M to each belay station. Second pitch is a hanging belay... The route should be rated 5.9
By Eric-D
From: Las Vegas, nv
Nov 9, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pretty good route with a variety of climbing; jugs, crimps, slab. It may get a little harder as hold break off but the holds that are suspect are in areas with an abundance of holds so it shouldn't change the route much.

Will be a great place to teach multipitch skills (much better than Mans Best Friend).
By Joe Cayer
From: Mesa, Az
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very fun climbing! Well bolted and there's a little something for everyone!
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 26, 2011

Very nice addition to Red Rocks & especially nice to have it right next to Physical Graffiti. Thanks for putting this up. We really enjoyed it. It was my friend Rich's first multi-pitch. This is a great route for a first multi-pitch.
By Cunning Linguist
Nov 27, 2011

I've heard this is officially the busiest route in RR for the season. Having done the route, I can see why. Close to the road, mellow approach, right beside a well-known classic, bolted closely enough for the choss factor not to be a big issue.

Having climbed it, I think that the above qualities and its relative uniqueness in the area make it worthwhile jaunt. I enjoyed the second pitch much more than the others, but think that the number of bolts is the major attraction here; the next step after Man's Best Friend, for many indoor hydroponic tomatoes/gym "climbers".

I think Dan put up a pretty decent route that is a sign of the times. It avoids natural features and protection, ledges, and goes for the steep rock and cleanest rappel. I enjoyed my sunny day amongst the tourists (who were all cool and left no trash), but can't help thinking that someone without Dan's mileage and experience might try to clone this "experience" on another cliff and really botch it up. Looking forward to the next one, though, brother. Well done.
By Jason Neve
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 3, 2012

Thanks to everyone who put this up. Climbed it today and had a blast, really fun route. One of my first leads after a nasty fall and this route was perfect to get the head back in the game. Still a little loose stuff but nothing bad.
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 18, 2012

Great route, thanks for putting it up.
From: Mesa AZ
Feb 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climb! Starts with great vert'ical right off the deck with great bolting to support you on some rather unique moves. The slab is thin but the sandstone is so adhesive so its great! Great views, great rock!
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 17, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

An absolute gem of a route, Dan- my compliments!

Strong leaders can do this with fewer draws than there are bolts- it's easy to backclean and skip bolts and still have it feel safe. We did it in two pitches with 10 draws and it was casual.

Super fun, thanks for the newer bolted anchor, it makes the setup for the walk off casual. Definitely don't rappel this thing, it'll eat you ropes alive. The walk off is relaxed and a nice end to the day.
By Jay Holland
From: Heath , Texas
Mar 26, 2012

Great climb. First and third pitches were better than the second. Not a fan of the hanging belay, could have been a few feet higher of lower and been more comfotable. But if it was a perfect route more people would be there. This is a great one to bring the out of towners to when they arrive in the afternoon and want to get a quick red rock climb in! Be careful rapping down slowly so we dont' abuse the areas that are fragile.
By m2ikem martz
From: Sandpoint, ID
Apr 5, 2012

Excellent climb! The first pitch is a solid 5.9, good holds but challenging in all the right places. The upper two pitches are easier like the 5.8 rating says, but still give you a thrill a few times! On the rappel we were able to reach the side gully from the seconds belay chains... saved the extra rope switcheroo.
By Vince Neil
Apr 30, 2012

There was a line up for this route while physical grafitti was free and clear....nice job Dan. We rapped off with no stuck-rope issues but had to pay very close attention not to knock any choss if waiting to climb this route it's a good idea to get out of the line of fire as it is still shedding significant amounts of loose rock.
By Dan Mathews
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

We did this early Sunday morning before it warmed up or anyone was there. It is a lot of fun and extremely well protected. The first pitch seemed easier than several of the .9's we did later in the day in the Black Corridor. We did 3 single rope (60m) raps and didn't have any issues with snags or breaking off holds.

I could do a climb like this over and over again. Thanks to whomever put it up!
By Jared R
Sep 23, 2012

We climbed this Yesterday, Saturday, Sept. 22, 2012. It was a great route. We combined the first 2 pitches with a 60M and 17-18 draws. The first pitch was steep and fun. The third pitch slab was my favorite and was very enjoyable. Great route! We rapped the route with a 60M rope in 3 rappels. Much better and easier than the walk off descent.
By Jrd311
Nov 16, 2012

a little more slabby in the middle of the route than I expected. Great for new leaders the bolts are comfortably spaced and the anchors are pretty comfy. Do physical graphiti to the right of this route(Trad)it was allot of fun.
By Canon
Dec 8, 2012

Definitely steep on the first pitch. Next two pitches are pretty easy. You can rap from the P2 anchors to the gully just left of the beginning of the route with a 70m rope no problem.
By Clint Walker ATX
From: Austin, TX
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a


My wife and I climbed this on 4/4/13 and had a large rock (100+lbs) slide off at us.

I was anchored into P3 belaying my wife's top out on P4. She had just anchored into P4 when the chossy ledge to the left of P4's route decided to let a couple of the large slabs of rocks slide. The large slabs began to slide down directly at me on the P3 anchors, luckily very slowly. I was able to halt the large piece by pressing my hands and knee down on it but doing so broke it into two pieces. The larger of the two slid off to my left and fell/bounced down striking the angled boulder near the start of Big Bad Wolf and Physical Graffiti - there's a pretty good scar on the boulder now. The smaller of the two piece (45 lbs) ended up in my lap resting on my slings and knee. I checked below for others, yelled rock and tossed the remaining piece off to get it off me. A few other pieces came loose and slid half way down the slope as well. I was able to move many back up to the ledge but a few remain in precarious places.

I'm not sure if this is the proper place to put this but if you're gonna climb this area please be aware of this situation, wear a helmet and watch out for rock fall.

It might be a good idea for some intrepid party to climb this thing early in the morning and kick as much of the loose trundle down as possible.
By Crotch Robbins
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

First off, this is a super fun route and I had a blast on it. Pitches 1, 2 and 3 are type 1 to the max.

There is a non-trivial amount of loose rock just above the P3 anchors in a cave-like formation below the P4 anchors. When climbing P4, the bolt out right keeps the rope and climber away from the looseness, but if you rap from the P4 anchors, the rope pull will put everyone below in jeopardy. I recommend walking off if you must do the 4th pitch. Do not rap from the final anchor. If you want to rap, skip the last pitch.

I'd suggest moving the P4 anchors up to the top of the formation to a location where nobody would consider rapping from them. As it is, rapping and then pulling ropes from the 4th pitch anchor is an accident waiting to happen.
By Patrick R. M.
From: Mesa, AZ
Jul 18, 2013

Super featured first pitch, slabbed out second pitch (crux), sweet juggy 3rd pitch. Scrambly approach, and bring comfortable shoes for the hanging belays!
By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Oct 24, 2013

Clocked my PR TRS (personal record top rope solo) for all 3 pitches in 11 mins 6 secs. Previous PR was 13:27. Yes, I was kind of bored that day...
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A BIG THANKS to whomever spraypainted the bolts directly on the rock! Not placing blame on the FA or a different party but man that looks like shit, and shit like that is almost wose then not painting the bolts at all!

o yeah...P2 you can plug small gear in the beautiful crack and skip most of those clippy things.
By The Farley
From: Idaho Springs
Nov 19, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

1). Agree that spray paint on the rock looks bad. Detracts from the quality of the climb.

2). Be conscious of loose rock up top.

3). Thanks for the hard work putting this up. Fun route.
By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Feb 5, 2014

Gaar and John Farley, all paint has been removed from the rock around all bolts. Please edit or remove your comment regarding paint on the rock. Thanks!
By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Feb 18, 2014

Thanks to the two climbers who were kind enough to let my client and I go ahead of them today. I hope you found the beer money I put in your shoes :-)
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 14, 2014

Get on this route before published in ink. As it is, the line can be incredible to get on especially Physical Graffiti right next door.

This is a very fine route with lots of bolts and easy belays. So much so, it likely will become a beginners route or perhaps even guide training for multi-pitch climbing. Bolt protected, bolted & chained belays all of which are seen from the ground make for an ideal set up for those just learning systems, hanging belays, rope management, calls and even rappelling. As a result, be prepared to wait a long time to get on this route and the ascents of others can be an absolute crawl.

As previously noted you can easily link 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 with a single 60 meter rope. Our selection was to wait for enough clearance above then link 1 & 2 which had minimal or no rope drag. Our 2+ hour wait paid off and was able to rap the route vs. taking the walk off. Again noting what a great instructional route it is as you can see the chains below making the raps clear to see and safe (minus the one to the ground which is blind). Cautious pulls to avoid getting hung up worked just fine.

Clean, aesthetic and great valley views with great aspect allowing sun or shade options. Nice line...right there in plain view all these years.
By tyler.s Stolt
From: Fayetteville, Arkansas
Mar 30, 2014

I climbed this a few days ago, and had a blast. It was my second ever multi-pitch and it was enjoyable for being well protected and having good belays. The one issue my party ran into was finding the p4 anchors. I expected them to be over to the left, seeing as how the walk off is left, but they were further over to the right. A note about where to find these bolts would have been nice.
By Likeasummerthursday
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Sep 24, 2014

Thought the crux was the first 20 feet of vertical jug-hauling. Loved the friction climbing on p2. Easier than most 5.9s out here.
By xscreamskier24
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

It was a great climb! Great intro for anyone learning to lead, or wanting to try multi-pitch. First pitch was probably more like a 5.8. The second and third pitches are slabby, but you have great foot holds. Some info said it was 4 pitches, but we put the third pitch and the last pitch...or pitchette? ( only two bolts). The walk off is a mother; bring your sandals. Some holds seemed hollow, but nothing wanted to break off. Maybe the loosest holds have been ripped off already. Woohoo!
By ClimberStu
Nov 3, 2014


It seemed like the first pitch was the pumpy crux and the second pitch was the mental crux - slabby move that felt more committing than the moves on p1. P3 also has some slabby moves. It seemed that the first belay could be made less hanging with a longer cordelette/slings. Rapping the route may be awkward if other parties are coming up the route.
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 25, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nice route that was put together very well by the 1st ascent party. If you're better at steep jug climbing than Red Rock slab climbing then pitch 2 and the start of pitch 3 will seem harder.

This route and Physical Graffiti right next to it make Riding Hood Wall a great destination crag.
By Klimbien
From: St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Dec 6, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Straight forward climbing - fun, easy, not 5.9 in my opinion. Walked off left (East) and thought it to be very easy, nice trail with cairns. 3rd class, one 4th class move, and much much faster than trying to rap the route.
By Ian Hancock
Dec 18, 2014

At top of third pitch you see a mystery bolt at 3 o clock. At 1 o clock you see a bolt that is painted in the same manner of the bolts on the route. That is the first of 2 to the fourth pitch anchor.
By Sergey Shelukhin
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 3, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As of 2014-12-28 the last "pitch" had rap rings.
We walked off, the party before us rappelled to the right and the party after us rappelled the route :).
Walk off heads left and up the slab, then follow the cairns into and down the gully.
The walk-off is dicey with lots of loose scree, and some 3rd-class down-scrambling. Rappelling seems is better if noone is on the route...
By Bradley Pazian
From: New York, New York
Feb 22, 2015

Did this route in early February. The route went into the shade late afternoon. We started on physical graffiti (awesome route btw) then switched over to this after finishing. The 1st pitch was steep and fun. I found it pumpy to lead. Second pitch is super slabby and thin for a huge change of pace after the first pitch. The third pitch starts out the same then gets steeper towards the top.

As we were planning to walk off I regretted not skipping the third pitch anchors and continuing onto the 4th pitch anchors. If I were to do it again I would not break up the third and fourth pitch. Walking to very top of the formation at the end of the climb is well worth it as it provides 360 degree views. Highly recommended to all who top out this climb.

The walk off in my opinion was quite easy. A bit loose and places and some short downclimbing sections (hard third maybe easy 4th class?) led back to the base of the cliff. IMO it beats rappelling any day, especially if the route is swarming with parties. To walk off just unrope at the 4th pitch anchors scramble up and climbers left on exposed slabs until you can get down into gully. Follow the path of least resistance down back to the base.
By James Cranston
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fantastic climbing. First pitch is the steepest part with (I think) the most thoughtful, save for a brief steep section on pitch 3. Pitch 2 is a fun slab problem. Watch the factor 2 going out of the belay beginning pitch 3. There are some committing moves for the grade right off the anchor - it's not in the most convenient spot. At the top there are a ton of loose rocks so be super careful. Hike up to the top of the ridge to get a great panorama of Vegas, the 1st and 2nd pullouts, and Calico Basin. I think this is a good beginning multi-pitch climb.
By Manderson198
Mar 19, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed this with Alyse on 25 January. Pretty fun, and not too difficult. You just have to trust your feet for a couple of moves, and all will be well. There were a couple of wonky bolt placements, but all in all this route follows a great line up cool face. A relatively short approach and descent make this a good little multi-pitch bolt clipper.

One note: please do not rappel back down the route. There is a really easy walk off to the climber's left, or you can use the really easy rappel/walk-off for Physical Graffiti to the climber's right. Rapping down BBW is unnecessary, potentially rope-snagging, and a rude choice, given the popularity and traffic on this climb.
By FourT6and2
From: San Francisco, CA
May 5, 2015

How are you supposed to clean the route and get your draws back if you don't rappel back down?
By TactiCool
From: Republic Of Korea (Temporarily)
May 5, 2015


I hope you aren't serious with that statement!

the follower cleans the route when he follows the leader.
By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
May 13, 2015

This route is... interesting. The moves and the exposure on some sections are very fun, and I would recommend it to anyone visiting RR and is looking for something to do during a late afternoon. The bolt spacing feels like a gym route. I actually skipped a few of them on the first and 3rd pitches just because it was easier to just go to the next one up than stopping and clipping. It IS a great multi-pitch route for beginners since the climbing is so accessible. The belay stances are mostly decent, but there are a couple hanging belays and those get a bit tiresome if you have a couple parties ahead of you. DO NOT RAP THE ROUTE! Do the down climb after you get to the last belay stance, head up the rock to the main wall and then cut left down a couple of ledges that lead to a sandy and rocky gully. There are a couple downclimby sections but you can do it in street shoes, it's not bad. Rapping the route on top of people isn't a great idea at all.
By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Oct 29, 2015

A BIG F*$% YOU to the douche bags climbing after the heavy rains in Oct 2015 and breaking a key hold off of the 1st pitch.

DON'T CLIMB SANDSTONE AFTER RAIN!!! It doesn't get any clearer than that!
By Andre H.
From: Boulder
Oct 29, 2015

Good news, now the most popular 5.9 in the country is actually 5.9!
By Matt Kuehl
From: Las Vegas
Nov 19, 2015

You and your crew will feel super boss when you do the WALK OFF instead of rapping the route on top of ascending parties.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 19, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I can vouch for this. ^^^^
By JF1
From: Las Vegas
Nov 22, 2015

By Devin Meade
Nov 22, 2015

Climbed this today, and what a blast! Second pitch was great and slabby, but the third pitch is the best. Slab to an extremely fun, sustained, overhung bulge. Lots of fun. Third and fourth pitch can be easily combined with 60m rope. We just ran-out from third anchors to the fourth anchors, skipping the bolts to the right since it's all some sub-5.0 scrambling. Great route, can't wait to go again.
By Drew Charness
Dec 22, 2015

A 70m will get you down from the top of pitch 2. Puts you in the gulley climbers left of the climb. Less hassle with climbers coming up. -60 would get you in the gulley too but you will have to down climb an easy crack. Easy to scout before you do the climb. Walk off on climbers right can be confusing if unfamiliar with area.
By matt c.
Feb 8, 2016

This route is ok. It presently has 4 starts--- this in only 1/2 star less then that epic classic of frogland, which is hilarious. This climb is not even i the same ball park.
By SP Boston
From: Watertown, MA
Mar 9, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fabulous sport route, as many have said. Pitch one is a great lead for sketchy 5.9 leaders because it is so solid and well-bolted. The whole route is extremely closely bolted (literally every 7 to 10 feet). One finger-y move that requires a high step and some confidence to go for the bomber hold. Otherwise straightforward. Pitch two and three are both easy 5.8 except that each has one or two moves of friction slab without much for the hands.

Descent: if you are a mountain goat like me, the descent would be 20 minutes and fun. If you don't like steep scrambling and boulder-hopping, it would be a somewhat agonizing 90 minutes (as it was in my case because my partner really doesn't like down-walking). Pick your poison: walk off or rap off.

All the holds were solid; nothing flaky. All the bolts in good condition. All the chains solid.
By Adra
From: Portland, OR
May 3, 2016

First of all, this is a really, really fun climb! Each pitch has its own unique flavor and offers fun, well-protected climbing.

We did this in two pitches, combining pitch 1 & 2 and then 3 & 4. My partner led the 1 & 2 pitch block and said the drag was getting pretty heavy towards the top. If I were to climb this again, I think I would climb pitch 1 & 2 separately to reduce drag and to fully savor the different styles of each pitch.

I highly recommend combining pitch 3 & 4 - the last "pitch" is 5.0 climbing with absolutely no bolts between the 3rd and 4th anchor. So it is actually safer to just combine the two pitches to get to the summit.

I also agree with the sentiment to walk off instead of rapping. The walk off to climber's left is simple and only took us 15 minutes. Plus it was great to enjoy sitting at the summit! No need to rappel on other people and potentially get your rope stuck.
By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
May 18, 2016

From Adra May 3, 2016: "I highly recommend combining pitch 3 & 4 - the last "pitch" is 5.0 climbing with absolutely no bolts between the 3rd and 4th anchor."

There are 2 bolts protecting the last easy pitch - look up and right. The pitch takes a crescent moon shape path up and right to the chains to avoid the rubble that lies directly above P3 chains.

By JK-
From: SLC
Oct 9, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Can be done from ground to anchors in one pitch with a 70 meter rope. Uses pretty close to the ENTIRE rope. Knot the end and be prepared to simulclimb if your rope is at all short...

We climbed it in a party of three this way... Which I would not recommend. For the first hundred feet or so there is some really serious pendulum potential if the third falls. However, it did have the benefit of being able to rap straight to the ground, no exposed scrambling (we were on university trip after all) or having to pendulum to get to previous pitches' anchors.
By helca
Nov 28, 2016

We climbed this with 60M twin ropes. Combined P1&P2, then decided to rappel from the P3 anchors (there was only one party below us who was OK with us doing that). We were able to make it all the way to the ground in a single rappel, but we had *just* enough rope to do that (tie knots in the ends if you want to try the same!). The "thin crux" on P2 was quite exciting for a short person unable to reach the better holds higher up (luckily there's a bolt right there which you can clip before figuring out your way up).
By Joycee
Jan 10, 2017

Get here early as this route is popular for those just starting out on multipitch. Looks like some holds might have fallen off so please don't climb on wet rock!
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Mar 4, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As stated, very popular and rightfully so - awesome climb. Had two parties in front of us and two more showed up to follow us. Run pitch 3+4 together if doing each pitch separately. 2nd belay hanging and uncomfortable. Bolt anchors at the end of each pitch. Did it originally end at third anchor and fourth anchor was added later? Otherwise unsure of why third anchor is even there. Walk off by doing a bit of scambling up and left of the final fourth anchors and come down the gulley. Pitch 3 was my favorite.
By Andrew Yasso
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2017

To commenter above: The 4th pitch anchors were added later, yes. The 3rd pitch anchors allow for rappel from that point. If you continue to the 4th pitch plan on walking off, as pulling your rope from the 4th pitch puts everyone below in danger of falling rock.
By Dennis
Apr 17, 2017

Fun route and very well protected.

Decent beta: we were able to rap to the start from the top of pitch 2 with a 70m. The rappel takes you about 15 feet climber's left of the start of the climb onto a ledge. Easy downclimb to the packs. This can help you avoid a bit of clustering at the top of P1 while descending.
By Safty Third
From: San Diego, CA
May 27, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Do it in two pitches and walk off. 5 minute 3rd class descent to climbers left.
By Robert Michael
Jun 13, 2017

Climbed it this morning; solo-led it in one pitch with a 70m rope, rapped on single strand from the P3 anchors and then cleaned on solo TR, then did the walk-off.

I did not see the P4 bolts but did not realize they were off to the right, so I just scrambled up to the last anchor to complete the climb.

The first pitch was the hardest, though I thought one section of the third was almost as hard. I found the second pitch easy, more like 5.7 or even 5.6, but the consensus is 5.8 and I'm not trying to claim it's wrong; different pitches feel different to different people.

Very fun climb. Glad I did it on a mild June weekday when no one else was out.
By Nathan Mielke
From: Springdale
Jun 20, 2017

You can link the first 2 pitches with a 60m rope. The route is fun. Be aware that a lot of people climb this route as their first multi-pitch climb. This makes for long queuing lines at the base. Also, the hike off is easier and FASTER! Hike off to maximize your time climbing other awesome routes.
By Big Ears
20 hours ago

Climbed this as a finisher to a big day of hard (for us) climbing. Combined 1 and 2. If i ever do it again, ill make it one monster pitch. Great climb

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