Big, Bad Book
||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||D. McKee, B. Scott, as an aid route "Late-night Horror Show, A3+", Dave Bohn?, 1973|
|Season: ||Fall, Winter, and Spring|
|Page Views: ||763|
|Submitted By: ||Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013|
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Big, Bad Book, 11b.
This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information: nococlimbing.org/portfolio/art...
This is a daunting, two pitch climb right up the heart of the South Face of Arthurs Rock.
P1: (5.11b) Climb a broken crack system to gain the bottom of a pillar and the first bolt. Continue up the pillar until you reach a left-leaning crack/corner. Continue up the crack placing a #4 Camalot before launching into the bolt protected crux. A short handcrack leads to the anchor from there.
P2: (5.11) Traverse left from the belay and pull the short, roof crack feature. Over the roof, continue moving up and right, following the crack feature to reach the summit. History
Referred to as the "Old Aid Route" by some people, it was rumored that this was a Mark Wilford route, but it was never confirmed. Apparently a climber named Rob Upton died on this route years ago. There is a plaque on a large boulder near the base of the climb dedicated to him. If you have any other info, please chime in.
To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthurs Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climbers right.
P1: 3 bolts and a standard rack including a crucial #4 BD. 2-bolt chain anchor for lowering.
P2: standard rack, there is no anchor on top. Walk off only.
After placing the #4 near the crux. Very long firs...
BETA PHOTO: Big, Bad Book, 11b.
By Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"
Feb 27, 2013
Yes, this is an old aid route. I thought it ~A3+ back in '73 when I first climbed it with a mix of primitive nuts and iron. I called it "Late-night Horror Show".
Again, I can't say I was the first, but there were no other pin scars when I climbed it.
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 5, 2013
Thanks for the history, Dave.
PM me if you want to get out climbing sometime....
By Shelton Hatfield
Dec 7, 2015
I only did the first pitch, so I will refrain from officially rating this one, but keeping in mind quality of movement, stone, and position, I found the first pitch of this to be of similar quality as its neighbor, Doom Book. 3 stars seems fair to me, as does 5.11b.