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From: Winston-Salem, NC
Mar 15, 2012
Big Arete is between the golden wall of 'Devil in the White House' and the very high wall near and below the actual parking lot. To see the namesake, you would have to make an effort to look directly overhead, where it looms like a ship's prow, lending the nautical theme for names for those Sport routes: 'Mutiny on the Bounty', 'Man Overboard', and 'Anchors Away' (which is not misspelled). The Kelley guide listed others on the main cliff, but none have anchors and are not climbed. The main three share one set of two cold shuts with a new ring, located atop 'Man Overboard' which is the most popular one. They can be reached directly from the very popular overlook, so top-roping is used. Note that Big Gully is closed to all entry, so the walk around via Jomeokee Trail (much shorter than via Three Bears Gully) is a hassle.
To the left is a short, broad buttress you must carefully walk around. Its flat top is accessed via a rough and damp chimney, which is also used to bypass 'Mutiny' to reach the belay base for the upper two main routes. The Kelley guide listed two routes on the buttress, though there is no clear separation, only more or less to right or left, which is also less or more difficulty. Both will lead on Trad gear, and there are two new sets of rim anchors with lower-off chains. Carrying rope and rigging up and down the chimney is not easy or safe.
By Rockbanned brett
From: Plattsburgh, Ny
Oct 31, 2013
|Pilot is pretty much the cats Meow. Excellent exposure, fun lines. something for everyone at this place. :) carolinaclimbers.org has an excellent climbing guide for this area. I'd recommend downloading it before heading in.|