Bholláin Muire (Mary's Pass) Rock Climbing
These lil' boulders cracked off the cliff sometime in the last few months. A good number of routes are under the sand now, but it's opened up some new opportunities for projects.
This set of three boulders appears to be one large boulder that cracked into three pieces when it hit the ground which provides some interesting combinations of easy chimneys, finger cracks, sharp chert problems, and some short, fun slab climbs.
The boulders are about 20 feet from the water at a modest high-tide, and who knows how far at low tide. The leeward side is very protected from the wind but receives direct sunlight from noon until about 6:00 PM, bring yo' sunscreen.
It's all boulders here, no ropes, no bolts. Just bring your shoes and chalk.
It's a lot of sharp chert (or "chert rich" to quote our geophysicist friend...) flakes and wrinkles and it's a ton of fun to climb but it'll chew through your fingers pretty quickly
There are no access fees to get here, but it's a LONG drive from San Francisco if you're heading there in the middle of the day on a Saturday (two hours from Berkeley) Just follow the directions to get to Hidden Cove and you'll get to these lovely ladies.
Access issues here are the tide. If it's high, you're gonna be dealing with spray on the rocks, waves lapping at your feet, etc, etc... Closest places to buy a beer are probably in Sausalito, so bring it with you when you head out. You can't camp very close to the rocks (as far as I know) because it seems like the tide goes all the way to the cliff during high tide.
Follow the directions to Hidden Cove. It used to be part of the wall.
Weather station 4.1 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Bholláin Muire (Mary's Pass)
Hugs from Thugs V2+ 5+
: San Francisco Bay Area
: ... : Bholláin Muire (Mary's Pas...
Starting from the large platform (on the left-hand side of the ocean-side of the largest boulder) The crux of this problem is the third move reaching for a weak grip on a sharp jug. There are strong feet at the beginning to carry the awkward hands and gravity works to your advantage once you've made the move. It's a rough game of finding a deep enough wrinkle to push your toe into for most of the traverse. It won't be much more than a warmup for a good climber, but for a mid-range beginner, it m...[more] Browse More Classics in California