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The Grendel
Routes Sorted
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Academic Freedom S 
Beowulf S 
Beyond the Pale T 
Daneland S 
Exit Stage Right S 
Freedom Fighter S 
Hrunting T 
Leitner Route S 
Monster Mash, The S 
Mother Grendel S 
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Pierced Lip Lock S 
Strong Arm Tactics S 

Beyond the Pale 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Dave Goldstein
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 659
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on May 27, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The line of Beyond the Pale. Photo by Dave Goldste...

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Description 

Climb the shady west face of Grendel, starting on a platform about 50' up the talus. Follow the most obvious line of thin cracks through two orange tiers, passing a large roof to the left at the start of the second tier, and then go up a final groove to the top. Either traverse right to a bolt anchor or continue to summit and downclimb north and back west. It is very fun climbing but there is lots of lichen. With traffic, this would earn three stars.

Protection 

Standard rack.


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By Bill Farrand
Jun 18, 2017

The protection on this route was pretty sketchy. I backed off from moving above the roof, because I couldn't find a strong gear placement.

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