Beyond the Fringe
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Follow the corner past a roof, then up to a stance. Make a move or two up the corner's continuation (crux), then gun it left out the roof system and turn the corner out on to the face.
Go up the V-3
trail, then walk right to the end of the roof system. The start is down and left of Balrog
The hardest move is protected, but after that there is no gear until you reach the rappel stations(s).