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East Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adagio T 
Adam's Rib T 
Beyond The Abyss S 
Block Party S 
Chestnut T 
Fun Park S 
Goldrush S 
Moondance S 
Neve's Cling On S 
Northern Lights T,S 
Powder in the Sky T 
Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 
Slot Right Step Left T 
Slot, The T 
Sugar Mama T 
Unknown Arete S 
Yellow Latex Blues S 
Yorkey's Crumpet T 
Unsorted Routes:

Beyond The Abyss 

YDS: 5.14d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI ZA: 36 British: E10 7c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.14d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI ZA: 36 British: E10 7c [details]
FA: Antoine Savelli
New Route: Yes
Season: year-round
Page Views: 988
Submitted By: Antoine Savelli on Jul 26, 2013

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Grade conversion chart.


This is the first hard route on the Ophir Wall, it has never been seconded. It was put up and freed in 1996.

First pitch: this has a 5a or 5.9 move. It is an average pitch, bring pro or use first pitch of Goldrush, which is much better.

Second pitch: 8c/8c+ or 5.14d/15a. It has a very tricky sequence up high and is sustained for 6 meters. Otherwise, it is quite reasonable.


This is on the Lower East Buttress, Jungle Gym, behind our house. It has a 3 minute approach.


10 clips.

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By Allen Chaney
Apr 19, 2014

8c/8c+ is 5.14b/c.
By Patricio Vyhmeister
Apr 14, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I just did "maybe" the fourth ascent of Beyond the Abyss. 5.13a/b, no way 5.13c or harder. Thanks for bolting such a good line, Antoine.

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