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Beyond 2000 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a X [details]
FA: unknown
Season: any
Page Views: 546
Submitted By: Rick Carpenter on Jun 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Starts just left of anguish of capt bligh and goes up through a series of small crimps until you reach a large side pull for a rest, from here run up a few more crimp rails in order to gain a horizontal (the first gear placement) the fire the finish to anguish. This routes x rating is serious and the crux is prior to any gear placements.

Location 

Start using a low crimp around the arete from anguish and a right hand side pull used as a foot for capt bligh and go up and left through small holds topping out on the left side of the arete.

Protection 

Medium cam, and a medium sized stopper both very high off deck.


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By Neil Rankin
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

Doesn't deserve an X rating in my opinion. Though it's unprotected through the crux, it's really only about 15-20 feet until the danger is over. More like a high ball boulder problem, with a bad landing mind you, to good gear for the upper half.

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