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Bewitched S 

Bewitched 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: unknown, soloed most likely
Season: day-time sun
Page Views: 1,161
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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The Observatory is the blunt, low angle, right-fac...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great moderate route with a small amount of gear. This climb ascends the right-end of the observatory, climbing the blunt low-angled formation more or less over the right side of the main feature of the observatory. This climb finished below the 'eye of the cyclops', if you will but with enough rope and maybe a little simul-climbing, can be completed to the top.
The grade felt significantly harder than the 5.3 grade given by Swain in his books.

Location 

Although there is supposedly an anchor from which to retreat, we climbed the whole formation and walked/scrambled back off to the SE and then back to the base.

Protection 

A few bolts. You WILL BE run out.


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By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Mar 8, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a fun climb and a party has options on how to do it, given the big ledges in the lower portion. We walked out the ledge leading left from the Stone Wall, scrambled a short (8') wall to a big ledge, and roped up at the north end of that ledge. From there, a pitch leading up and right, back to the crest, includes a short steep section with two bolts, (quite hard to see, as they have dark, old-style Leeper hangers) then a giant hueco with a bolt at the right corner. Climb right and onto the ridge, where you'll find another bolt, then more or less directly up the rounded crest, passing two more bolts to reach a double bolt anchor. Another pitch from there to the top, with one bolt on top.
We walked north, downclimbed an awkward undercut to get fully off the formation at its northern tip, then scrambled right and down to the Stone Wall area and our packs.
There are occasional gear placements, but not many. We happened to belay at one of the bolts below the double-bolt station and did use a .75 cam combined with the single bolt. That was nice.
By cassondra long
Mar 2, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Fun route. Well bolted at the crux. Pretty laid back in the runout up the arete. New bolts up to the the Eye of the Cyclops, and the two bolt anchor is new as well. Didn't go to the top of the formation, but rapped w/2ropes. Probably fine to rap down the front of the formation w/70m and a little easy downclimbing. Can TR the other two routes to the left of Cyclops Eye with top belay and directionals placed on rappel (small cam placement for 5.9 directional, clip top bolt for 5.10 route) or belay from bottom w/two ropes.
By Ben Townsend
Nov 25, 2016

If you do the second pitch to the top of the formation, the downclimb is seriously awkward. Alternatively, walk due north past some small water pockets to a ledge at the lip, where you'll find two black-painted bolts permitting a one-rope rappel into the gully. Bring a cordelette and rings (or better, quick-links, steel rings, and a wrench), as the bolts currently lack a rappel setup.

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