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Ridge 2 aka Satan's Slab
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Face The Present (aka Beware the Future) 

YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 31 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Bob Horan, 1988? Dale Goddard? FFA: Bob Horan with Patrick Edlinger
Season: Fall
Page Views: 1,876
Submitted By: bhoran on Jan 2, 2009

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Photo: Andy Mann. Jonathan Siegrist cutting his ch...

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  • Description 

    Start as for Doric Dihedral and bust out left to the overhang and arete via bolts. Crimp small holds in the overhang, slap to arete, eventually gaining a now much smaller and slopey lip hold, hang the lip swing and fire onto the face above up to a two bolt belay.

    Location 

    Climb out the severly overhanging face and arete just left of Doric Dihedral. Start as for Doric Dihedral and bust out left to the overhang and arete via bolts. Crimp small holds in the overhang, slap to arete, eventually gaining a now much smaller and slopey lip hold, hang the lip swing and fire onto the face above up to a two bolt belay.

    Protection 

    Bolt clipping to a two bolt belay, rap to ground.


    Photos of Face The Present (aka Beware the Future) Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick Edlinger runs a lap on Beware the Future a...
    Patrick Edlinger runs a lap on Beware the Future a...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan making repeat ascent without jug hold at...
    Bob Horan making repeat ascent without jug hold at...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan on Beware the Future, with jug hold at t...
    Bob Horan on Beware the Future, with jug hold at t...

    Comments on Face The Present (aka Beware the Future) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By doug rouse
    From: Denver, CO.
    Jun 4, 2013

    I can remember in the late '80s or early nineties, a photograph of Dale Goddard climbing this line, but it was called "Face the Present" and graded .13c. Was there some kind of hullabaloo over this? I also recall resistance to the 5.14 grade as well. Not all that important but a curiousity.
    By Matt Lavender
    Jan 22, 2017

    Without doubt, Dale Goddard did the first free ascent of this route, rated it .13c and named it Face The Present. A large number of people were calling foul on several of Bob's claimed first ascents - this prompted Scotty Franklin (I believe it was Scott) to ask Bob to name his belayer. Scotty called the belayer who said, without hesitation, that Bob did all of the moves but never linked the climb in one go. Bob then changed his story and said he was belayed by his brother. Oddly, Bob returned to work on the climb (after supposedly having sent it) and broke off a key hold. It was after the hold broke that Bob stated he had already done the climb (pre-broken hold) and that it would be 5.14 with the broken hold. I belayed Dale on his ascent (after the hold broke) - it was clean, quick and easy (for him).
    By Steve Sangdahl
    From: eldo sprngs,co
    Jan 23, 2017

    Matt, thanks for clarifying the history on this. I remember some of the details but not all. Cheers.
    By bhoran
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 7, 2017

    FFA: Bob Horan with Patrick Edlinger.
    Matt was always a jealous little !!!!!
    All I have to say about route stalkers is, go find your own!
    By Matt Lavender
    Feb 13, 2017

    Hmmm...guess I am jealous about a route that I never gave a serious effort on. I'm confused. As for the first ascent...Patrick's visit was AFTER the hold broke - as anyone that attended Bob's slideshow (way back when) can attest. Neither Patrick or Bob did the climb after the hold broke. This was stated clearly at the slideshow. Guess that resolves that.
    By bhoran
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 14, 2017

    Delusional.

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