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Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) T 
Blockade Direct ? T 
Cirrus T 
Condescender T 
Condescending (Mid-Climb Variation) T 
Consolation Prize T 
Falling Aspirations T 
Fleabitten (Mid-Climb Variation) T 
Indented Slab (a "Mid-Cliff" Slab), The T 
Lakeview T 
Lima Bean T 
Micron T 
Odyssey of an Artichoke T 
Slip o' Fools T 
Snooky T 
Stretched On Your Grave TR 
unknown T 
Wag, The T 
Weissners Butress T 
Weissners Dike T 

Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Howard Peterson & David Tibbetts mid 1970's
Page Views: 1,118
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Aug 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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An early ascent


Wild exposure is the crux of this one!

P1 5.4 120, Climb first pitch of Weissners dike to a two bolt belay

P2 5.9 120, Move out right from the belay and head up then left aiming for the steep wall below the Dog. Tricky and sometimes chossy moves up and left gain you the ledge before the dogs jaw. (this pitch can be split here by belaying to the right if you think rope drag will be a problem) Here exposure is the name of the game. Hand traverse out left (no feet!) and mantle onto the dogs nose (crux). Follow a ledge around to the south side of the Dog climbing loose flakes and an easy corner (shared with Fleabitten) to finish. Belay from two bolt belay on top of dogs head.


Start as for Weissners dike and climb the north side of The Old Mans Dog


Your standard rack should do you, red camalots protect the crux

Two raps with two ropes or a 70m and some easy downclimbing

Photos of Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: (Photo: Brian Aitken)
(Photo: Brian Aitken)
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo: Beware of the Dog and Micron
BETA PHOTO: Topo: Beware of the Dog and Micron
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Z
Mike Z
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of p2 (also the end of P1)
Start of p2 (also the end of P1)
Rock Climbing Photo: Checking it out
Checking it out

Comments on Beware of the Dog (Mid-Climb Variation) Add Comment
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By Mike Robinson
From: Worcester, MA
Aug 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome route...thanks to Rumney and it's popularity this moderate line will be open all day every day!
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 30, 2012

That cracked block representing his jaw is gnar.
By Jesse Laniak
From: Somerville MA
Aug 31, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A great outing. The exposure on the traverse, and afterwards is what its all about. I would recommend just climbing this will a single 70. Also I would link the first pitch all the way past the anchors to the corner of the dogs head. Then execute the traverse from there. This is because the rope drag is pretty bad after the traverse. You kind of go around his nose and up the opposite side on the loose flakes mentioned. Definitely under-climbed and under-rated!

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