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Between the Thighs 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: James Cook, Rene Ardesch, July 1988
Page Views: 979
Submitted By: Nathan W. on Aug 22, 2013

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splitter before the roof

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>


This route is an awesome and moderate way to summit Moro from Zocalo ledge or from the bottom. But you'll notice that this route is in the upper middle section of Moro, so you actually have to climb another route to get to it. Fortunately the other route is the same grade, making this path a great and exposed way to the patio ledge. And it's only 5.8! But be sure you're confident at the grade, because you can't pull through the slab.

The Approach: pitch 1.Walk to the furthest right(south) side of Zocalo ledge, you'll see two bolts with rap rings on them, you can clip these as your anchor. Climb the crack directly above the bolts. Step on to the small dike ,twenty feet up, and place a piece high(.3-.5"). Traverse right on a rising dike that leads into a corner. Follow the corner to a large ledge and either use the bolts to the left or build an anchor to the right.
Pitch 2. Walk to the right side of this ledge and start up a 5.6 off-width. You'll get to a hand sized horizontal crack, place here and the climb straight up and slightly right into the slab(exposed 5.8 Crux). You'll get to a small corner that'll take good pro. Traverse left below the overhanging wall for a bit till you find a good spot to belay. A 70m is needed to reach the ledge to the left, with a 60m you'll just end up cutting the traverse short to Belay, or the leader may end up belaying the second on a slung stick under a couple of rocks!

The Route: Now to start the route! Pitch 1: Once you arrive at the ledge, climb the right-slanting finger crack that leads into a dihedral, continue up the open book, with a fist crack in the back,(5.8) and belay in the alcove.
Pitch 2: The shortest but sweetest pitch. The alcove is capped with a roof that has a couple cracks underneath that take you out from under it. Traverse along these cracks until you pull around the roof, enjoy the exposure, and summit on the Patio Ledge. lots of drag so belay right after the roof. Success! Bask in the cheers of the tourists above!


Locating this may seem difficult but once you're on route, it's quite straight forward. Rappel down to Zocalo ledge, walk to the very far right side of this ledge, to the two-bolt anchor. Start here.

The walk off from the patio isn't terribly straight forward and is 4th/low 5th class and a fall could be horrible and lead to death and whatnot. Once you're on the ledge go to the left side and scramble up some easy slab and then follow the wall too the right, turn an exposed corner, with a drop off, and climb the small ravine to the stairway. Rope recommended.


Doubles from fingers to 3"
Two 60 meters needed to rap, or a 60m and a 70m

Photos of Between the Thighs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The approximate Route Photo by Blitzo
BETA PHOTO: The approximate Route Photo by Blitzo
Rock Climbing Photo: the roof
the roof

Comments on Between the Thighs Add Comment
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By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Apr 23, 2014

Rene' Ardesch was on the FA with Cook
By Bruno Beltran
From: Stanford, CA
Jun 27, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Jumped on this last weekend and managed to get pretty darned confused trying to follow the topo listed. From Zoccalo ledge, climb directly above the bolts using hard to find but solid gear that might need minimal gardening. Once you get up the right angled dike to the ledge belay your partner up then move the belay to the offwidth far down the ledge to the right.

Here's the but that confused me, climb up the offwidth past the horizontal hand crack onto the face. You will reach a huge, totally detached cube sitting next to a corner that takes good pro. The topo listed here says "continue up" which I presume means continue up this corner, but unless I died and someone made overhanging rings 5.8, that's not the way to go.

Trying to follow the topo on sekiclimbing, I instead traverses left along the horizontal crack system at the base of the corner, basically reversing the same distance I traversed right a pitch earlier to reach the offwidth (5.6 reverse mantle to place gear, and some Manzanita whacking). I ended up on another huge ledge (Tier of vision ledge?) with a beautiful (albeit full of greenery for the first 10ft) crack that angles up and right towards what looks like a huge roof about 60m away.

Reaching this ledge from the bottom of the offwidth was a 70m rope stretcher. So much rope drag that I set up a pulley to ease the belay. I would pitch out the traverse if I returned.

I went up to the below the roof (5.8) and pitched out the roof exit (5.8) as suggested, but still had heinous rope drag and had to build a belay right away due to a rope eating constriction as you round the roof. From there it's minimal 5th class onto Patio ledge from where you can escape to the tourist path near the summit on "3rd" class by bailing left then right up ramps as pictured on sekiclimbing.

The scramble up to the railing where the tourists are is not third class in any universe.

This route was a fun adventure, and the roof exit gets 3+ stars at the grade, but if you have to climb that much grunginess to get to it, is it still 3 stars? Then again, I was probably only disappointed with the climb because we found our approach choice, "Escape from Darkness", to be pretty boring and unnecessarily runout over unsling-able knobs.
By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Jul 19, 2017

Bruno, what do you mean by, "the topo listed here?"

Was it the directions on this page that were confusing or something on

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