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The Bookmark
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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
Backflip T 
Bellyflop T,S 
Between The Sheets T 
Bookmark OW T 
Cave Route T 
Coleman's Complex T 
Crack of No Return T 
Dead in Bed T 
East Side T 
Fall Out T 
Fantasy Ridge T 
Goose, The T,S 
Inside Straight T 
Joy and Tribulation T 
Klingon (with direct start) T 
Manhole Cover T 
Marginal Line T 
Original Fantasy Ridge T 
Penis Chimney T 
Plan A T 
Rhythm Method T 
Romulan Territory T 
Screamin' Eagles S 
Seams Like A Dream T 
Skid You Not T 
Sojourn T 
Son of a Pitch T 
Star Trek T 
Time Machine T 
Twiggy's Crack T 
Virgin Spring T 
Wigglin' Fingies T 
Unsorted Routes:

Between The Sheets 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Malcolm Daly/Bill Wylie
Page Views: 7,192
Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Oct 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Sara Reeder following Between The Sheets.

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


Splitter, thin crack and face climbing on the West Face of the Bookmark. The guidebooks say to approach from the first two pitches of Fantasy Ridge. Sounds good. but we scrambled to the ledge below the crack. You can do it either way. The route is obvious from the ledge.

P1 - Climb the thin cracks to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.11+.

P2 - Traverse right to the buttress and face climb to the top. 5.10d.


Thin stuff and a few draws.

Photos of Between The Sheets Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This picture was taken on the first ascent in June...
This picture was taken on the first ascent in June...

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By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Mar 24, 2002

The manky, quarter-inch spinners at the anchor have been replaced with three-eighths bolts with steel rings. It makes the hanging belay a little less spooky. An interesting note for those of you who have rapped off these recently, one of them popped out with a very gentle tap from a crowbar!
By David A. Turner
Jul 26, 2002
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This is one great route. In Malcolm's comments, he rates the first pitch at 5.11+ rather than 11b. I believe the former is more accurate. Thin, a little hard to see the placements at the crux, superlative rock, great climbing.
By Nate Christiansen
Jul 31, 2003

This is the best climb I have ever done. It takes superb gear and is sustained thin climbing with a few thank God finger jams. 5.11d, I thought.
By Bob Rotert
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Did this route yesterday with Richard Aschert and both of us agreed it is a great route. Also agreed the 11 c rating was a bit under what the route should be rated. To try and help with concensus on rating this route. For a onsight trad lead, we both agreed if we were to split the letter grades, it might be closer to 11d/12a [than] 11d/11c. But letter grades can be like splitting hairs. I prefer the the 11 minus, solid 11, or 11 plus rating system where I would have no problem calling this 11+. And whats with Malcom writing this up as 11b and then in the description saying it is 11+. Sorry, but I'm confused! Regardless of that it has lots of good, sustained climbing with a hard crux at the end, just before getting to the belay bolts. Protection is good but can be a little testy gettting in on lead. Pro is mostly RPs and small stoppers.

This pitch is a great trad lead. In the tradition of trad climbing, the belay could be avoided if one wanted to add difficulty, since this is not really a spot where the climbing stops or is even an actual rest. If one wanted they could by pass the belay and continue the line to the top before belaying. We did not do this. I was very happy to be able to get the on site lead up to the belay bolts without falling and off my aching feet!! Hats off to Malcolm & Bill for this plum!!
By Roy Leggett
Jun 7, 2006

Does anyone know what the "Seam Direct" finish is all about on P.2? Rather then breaking right around the bulge, you would stay in the seam. From what I remember: there was a fixed nut and 2 bolts (with red tags).
By Steve McCorkel
Jun 10, 2007

Yes, it is Seams Like A Dream. Check it out!
By Steve McCorkel
Jun 12, 2007

In addition to the thin gear: a #0.75 Camalot works nicely below the crux, right after a very thin section.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

FuMazing! One of the best pitches I've done at Lumpy. Incredible stone with perfect pro (though its a little strenuous to place). I think I placed one #0.75 down low... other wise it's a lot of small #4-#6 stoppers and some smaller cams. Not to be missed.

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