REI Community
West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cut Above T,TR 
Android Tilt T 
As We Liked It T 
Bat, The T 
Between the Cracks T 
Blackout T 
Born Under Punches T 
Bushwack Crack T 
Chock Suey T 
Chockstone T 
Cornerstone TR 
Fade To Black T 
Fading Light T 
Friends in High Places T 
Ice Nine T 
Jericho T 
Joke Crack to Superstone T 
Knight's Move T 
Laughing at the Moon T 
Ministry of Fear T,TR 
Modern Defense T 
Muscular Dystrophy T 
Prince of Darkness T 
Purple Haze T 
Red House T 
S&M T 
Sirens of Titan T 
Speakeasy T 
Superstone T 
Sylvia's Bush T 
Tales of Ulysses T 
Tilt Right T 
Whiplash T 

Between the Cracks 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Wayne Crill and Brad Durbin, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Mar 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Joe feeling like he needs to find some pro....

  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    I have been told by people in the know, that this line, unbelievable as it may be, apparently has never been led. I do know of at least two parties however who have toproped the line, and I presume there might be more. This route begins 15' L of Knight's Move at a seam splitting an overhang 10' above the trail. A #6 Camalot in the horizontal crack/slot to the L protects the initial crux pulling over the overhang onto the face. Once established on the face, look for a good nut placement in the seam, and continue up the crack and face with moderate climbing and adequate gear to a fun delicate finish at the choss band just below KM’s p2 V-slot. The PG13 comes from the crux start, the big cam should keep you off the ground, but it would be a potentially awkward swinging fall into a dihedral. Once on the face there is plenty of gear when you need it.

    An anchor can be set up in the crack at the start of p2 of KM to bring the second up, or easier, just place a TR directional here and traverse 30’ R to the anchor atop Chockstone and descend to the ground to belay. Both of the first ascentionists led the pitch placing gear.


    The route is located at the very top of the West Ridge, ~15’ to the L of Knight’s Move, locate an obvious seam through a roof 10’ off the ground which opens to a small crack paralleling p1 of Knight’s Move and terminating 60’ up at the base of Knight’s Move’s p2 V-slot.


    Gear: SR and a 5-6” cam or big bro for the start.

    Comments on Between the Cracks Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Steve Sangdahl
    From: eldo sprngs,co
    Mar 6, 2009

    Wayne, I believe there already is a route named "Road to Nowhere", although without the question mark. It's on Hawk Eagle Ridge next to D.O.A. and Cinch Crack. Peace and f-nes. Steve S.
    By Scott Bennett
    Mar 18, 2009
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

    Fun route, good find guys. The climbing up near the top, just below the KM dihedral, was surpringly good.

    If you didn't happen to bring the #6 battle-axe up (I can't imagine why not...) you can get a sheisty-looking small cam (kinda flared) and a decent RP in the little slot below the roof. Still pretty heads up, seems like a fall here would suck either way, even if you had the big cam.


    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About