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Hostess Gully - West Corridor
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13b S 
Between Heaven and Earth S 
Blind Pig S 
Das Boot T 
Earth Muffin S 
El Castleton T 
Fruit Filling T 
Fruit Pie S 
Get Your Fixe S 
Ho Ho S 
Honeymoon in Almo S 
It Takes Two S 
Numbshull T,S 
Patina Atoll T,S 
Piece of Cake T 
Red Rib S 
Slab Happy S 
Southern Rock Opera T 
Twinkie T 
Zinger S 

Between Heaven and Earth 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA:  Nathan Smith and Brian Cabe
Page Views: 4,227
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Jul 19, 2006

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>


A long sport climb just left of It Takes Two.

Start out with a couple easy slab moves to a small roof/bulge with a bolt. Continue straight up on perfect rock for another 100' to a bolted anchor. Rap with two ropes.


Between Honeymoon in Almo and It Takes Two, this route is the second route from the top of the Hostess Gully.


17 draws.

Photos of Between Heaven and Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying time 'Between Heaven and Earth'
Enjoying time 'Between Heaven and Earth'
Rock Climbing Photo: Tara on Between heaven and Earth
Tara on Between heaven and Earth
Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Long hiking 5.9 at Castle Rock.
Ron Long hiking 5.9 at Castle Rock.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 22, 2016
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jan 4, 2007

FA: Nathan Smith and Brian Cabe.
By Wavey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 19, 2007

Great long route. Good rock. Bring long runners.
By Tyler Barker
From: Jackson, WY
Mar 1, 2010

Good Route and nice views from the top. Just one 5.9 move with a tough clip.
By Skiholzer
From: Hyde Park
Jul 18, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route. The only draw back is rope drag. Also, don't be fooled by the route length on here; it is only 110 feet if you use the anchors mid way on It takes two. Otherwise it's all of 210 to the top.
By benjaminleaton Eaton
From: Sandy, UT
May 20, 2012

you can climb and rappel this route with one rope by rappeling to the mid anchors on the route to the right (It Takes Two).
By ben orton
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

15 draws same as red rib 16 if u like to clip the chain bolt before locking off. I ran out slings on the first few bolts but didn't on the most important one the line makes an obvious move left make sure u run out a sling on the bolt before. It can seem a bit scary cuz the move is a bit above the bolt but it will make the rest of your climb much easyer. There is nothing worse than gettin pulled off a balance move when clipping a bolt
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a fun route that should be lead all in one go on from the base/gully to the top. Bring a few shoulder length slings for the bottom to avoid rope drag. Quality 5.9 face climbing.
By Trevor.
From: Boise, ID
Oct 1, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

What a fun long pitch! I skipped bolts 2 and 3(humongous low angle jugs make this safe to do) and used long runners on nearly every bolt and the drag was manageable but still not great. As said before, the traverse to the left above the roof is a bit scary with a long runner, but it was well worth it once past that move. There are chains about 10m below the top anchors(blind pig anchors?), these will get you down on a single 70m rope.
By Dan Mathews
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a long pitch. Bring several long slings. Route starts on the left edge of the overhang near the ground. There is a bolt a few feet up, which makes the start obvious. I thought this was the start of Takes Two, but that route starts at the far right of the initial overhang where there is not a bolt.
By Mark Stein
Oct 3, 2015

This was a totally fun route, mostly sustained,after the early part, and deeply satisfying to complete. The opening move is probably the crux, and harder for shorter folks. And the big traverse left, after the little roof was thought-provoking and took some time to see through clearly. Overall, a great way to end a great day of climbing.
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
May 22, 2016

One of the best pitches at Castle Rocks. Crux to me seems at 3/4 height. Some small pinches and crimps. Chalk up!

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