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Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 
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Pistol Whipped S 
Plague T,S 
Portent T,TR 
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Trauma T 
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Verdict (direct), The S 
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 

Between a Rock and a Hard Place 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Davis, Kelly Rich, David Rubine, Chris Bellizzi 1/1990
Page Views: 1,148
Submitted By: Darko Sarenac on Aug 31, 2007  with updates from Kyle Queener

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

A bit loose getting to the first crux at the fourth bolt (10c). The climbing then improves as you climb a bulge pass the last three closely spaced bolts (it is possible to clip two of them of a stance).

Location 

About 20 feet to the left of portent.

Protection 

11 bolts to chains.


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By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Feb 4, 2013

This was a surprisingly fun climb. Definitely not as sustained as the Verdict but possibly a bit more technical? Plus there is a nice rest where you can totally recover before pulling the 11a crux at the top. Very well protected by bolts except for a 15 foot gap between the second and third bolt on easy (5.6/7) terrain that can be protected with a bomber yellow #2 BD. Although the climbing is easy here, I recommended bringing the cam because the rock is a bit loose (only place on the route that I found suspect).
By kovar Pa
Apr 13, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I liked the climb quite a bit. It seemed harder to me than e.g. Foreplay. I would rate it at 11b/c, am surprised at the 11a rating. Either stuff broek off or I was getting really tired at the end of the day! Both cruxes seemed pretty technical and "sequency".

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