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Better than Watching TV (previously submitted as Fantastic Voyage) 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Casey & Vance White, (?Craig Luebben?)
Page Views: 1,831
Submitted By: Spencer Anderson on Jun 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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First pitch: start off on two cold shuts, then traverse right then back left. This route seems to be all over the wall. The bolt placement seems strange, and they are very spread out, although they are there when you need them. As long as you are confident at the grade, this route won't make you sweat too much. 5.10a, 90'.

Second pitch: ? 5.11d, 75'.


Approaching the main face from the trail, take a right after getting to the crag. This route is the very first one on the main face going right to left. Starts just a few feet left of the tree.


First pitch: 7 bolts and two anchor bolts that are shared with the route to the left. Long runners aren't a bad idea to keep the drag down.

Second pitch: Per derek peavey: there is a bolted second pitch to this climb that goes at .11d.

Comments on Better than Watching TV (previously submitted as Fantastic Voyage) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 8, 2017
By derek peavey
Jun 4, 2007

There is a bolted second pitch to this climb that goes at .11d.
By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 4, 2007

Derek, thanks for the info. Is the second route part of this line or the one to the left? From what I could tell, the two right most routes shared anchors. Who does the second pitch belong to? I guess it doesn't matter other than just organizational purposes.
By derek peavey
Jun 4, 2007

The second pitch is part of the coldshut route which is a route that was there before I started climbing there 4 years ago. The route to the left was put up but an unknown person last summer. There was two side by side bolts about 20 ft. up for some reason. One of the bolts has been removed. I have not climbed that route yet, so I don't know if there is a second pitch to that line.
By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 4, 2007

I climbed both of the right most routes and from what I can tell (which may not be correct) they both end at the same anchors. However, with this line you have to do some considerable traversing to the left to get to the anchors. It seems strange that someone would go to that much trouble to put the anchors so far out there. I'll update the posting when I get a chance to do the second pitch, any suggestions/clarifications would be helpful.
By Jimn Seiler
From: North Platte, NE
Jun 8, 2007

If you guys are talking about the route farthest to the right that starts with cold shuts, that is a Craig Luebben route called Fantastic Voyage that goes 5.10- on the first pitch, and I'm not sure on the second pitch. I don't know about the x rating, I don't remember it being that sketchy, but maybe we are not talking about the same route. The one I am talking about is as far as you can go to the right on the ledge right by the tree that starts with cold shuts.
By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 11, 2007

I think we are talking about the same route. The bolting is fairly spaced out, at least compared to the other routes on the wall. The good thing is that they are there when you need them, so it doesn't feel sketchy.
By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 3, 2008

I have yet to climb this route. I believe this is a route a friend of mine was always trying to get me to climb. There was only one route on the face when he put it up. So, I don't think Craig put this up. And, it may have also be called Better Than TV. Or was it Better Than VD? Depends whether you like it or not I guess.
By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 28, 2008

Okay, the second pitch is nice. As good as any of the other second pitches here that I've climbed-they have so far had bolts farther spaced than the first pitches. Makes for fun. Fairly certain this is the route I was told about, Better Than TV, 5.11c**
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Sep 5, 2009

Whatever route this is, the second pitch definitely improves the overall route quality and, I think, is fairly graded at 11d. The crux is sort of short, but is pretty powerful and rather than doing the moves to be rewarded by a big rest, you have to climb an 11ish sequence to a nice hold, and then some 10 moves to a legit rest.

This route is more like 165 feet long. P1: ~90 ft, P2: 72ft.
By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 20, 2010

I plan on changing out the first two cold shut hangers. Very poor and unwelded. I want to believe this route was retrobolted, the fat bolt by the fat crack seems uncharacteristic for the first ascentionists, VW and partner. But then so do the unwelded cold shuts. The second pitch is really pretty nice, easier than other 11+'s, and the first pitch makes for a good warm up.
By Vance White
Dec 4, 2012

I'm a little behind the times on this. Morkel is right though; we called this route: "Better than Watching TV" and rated it .11+. We bolted this (Casey and I) together, and it was our first route. Casey did more of the work if I recall correctly. We used a #3 Camalot in the pod on the second pitch to protect that section. I would not be offended at all if the anchors were updated or sections cleaned more as this again was our first route. I would love to get back there and check out all the other routes that have gone up.
By JCD Derrick
Aug 17, 2014

Just climbed P1 today. A bit sketch with the bolt distance and meandering. Also the entire climb was overgrown with lichen, like it hadn't been climbed much this year
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 14, 2016

The bolts have been replaced on the first pitch, and a direct start appears to be added.
By garrett knorr
Apr 27, 2017

The second pitch is completely bolted and has chains for rappelling. You can rappel all the way from the top to the ground with 2 60m ropes (we did it was a 60 and 70 but the 60 was through the chains so the 70 technically gave us no extra length).
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
May 8, 2017

The direct start/pitch to the right is a better quality first pitch. Good climbing.

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