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Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
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Armed Forces S 
Arms Reduction T 
Army T 
Better Than Better Than Love T 
Better than Love T 
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Forget Me Not T 
Guardian, The S 
Gunky T 
In God We Trust T 
Inscrutable T 
Like Hell It Is T 
Love T 
Party Of One T 
Seeker, The T 
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Wanderer, The T 
What, What? TR 
Who, Who? T 

Better than Love 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: George Bell on Jun 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Roth in the steep, huecoed crux.

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  • Description 

    This route begins in the same place as "Love". See the description for that route to locate the start. Crank the entrance move to get onto the rock. After you reach a large ledge about 15' up, instead of moving up and right into the large dihedral (Love), move up and left.

    The exact line of this route was not clear to us. If you move far enough left you run into a clean arete, and we climbed this to the ridge. I believe you can also climb the face right of this arete. It may be possible to lead this entire thing in one giant pitch with a 60m rope, but you would have to be careful with the rope drag. We split it up into two pitches.

    Once you reach the ridge, you can downclimb the east side, or continue to the top.


    Standard Flatiron rack.

    Photos of Better than Love Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: From the top, you can scramble north around where ...
    From the top, you can scramble north around where ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down.
    Looking down.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Heading across the slots and huecos on Better Than...
    Heading across the slots and huecos on Better Than...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Deb just above the runout, steep 5.5 R section.  N...
    Deb just above the runout, steep 5.5 R section. N...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb wanders around looking for protection on...
    Tony Bubb wanders around looking for protection on...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Patty follows up somewhere near 'Better Than Love'...
    Patty follows up somewhere near 'Better Than Love'...

    Comments on Better than Love Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Warren Teissier
    Jun 20, 2002

    Lead this today and I have to say, it is NOT better than Love.

    From the point where the routes separate, follow the strata left towards the arete to a point where the arete has a large pointed horn (separated from the arete by a one foot crack). This is the crux.

    Turn the horn towards the North and climb the arete straight up from this point. The rock near the horn is brittle, but take a large piece (#3 Camalot).
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 15, 2006

    I went up the crack and then rather than going left or right, went up more or less central to the face. I did it in a single 50+ meter pitch and got 4 pieces of gear in. It felt harder than 5.5, too.
    Anyway, it was a decent line.

    You can rap from the chains of the 'Like Heaven' tower summit with a 60m rope to the ends to reach a chock in the dihedral of 'Love.' There is a SOLID rap station there from which to reach the ground in another 40-50' rap.
    By Chris Zeller
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 28, 2007

    I did this yesterday along with Love. I agree, this was a fun climb, but Love with its dramatic summit is much better.

    One 60m rope is plenty to reach the summit. The line is pretty straight, so no rope drag issues.

    To get off this climb, scramble right from the summit over a boulder, along the NE face and around to the west side to two medium-sized fir trees. One tree has a bunch of green slings with rap rings. One 50 m rope should make it to the ground. We used one 60m.
    By Brendan
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 20, 2012

    Thanks for the excellent beta on the route, Warren Teissier! I really liked the airy exposure on the arete. Maybe not quite as good as "Love", but I enjoyed the route very much. The rap station on the tree to the north was in good condition.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Aug 30, 2013
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

    This is an interesting pitch. There really aren't any great features to necessarily follow; however, there is this line of huecos in the middle of this face that draws the eye. I'm guessing it is the steepness of this section on jugs that make it "better than" Love. Note, you have to get creative with pro in this stretch, and it's better not to flame out or fall here, as it might not be pretty. Think Gunks and you'll be okay. It was 180' to a ledge.

    The tree up and over and down from the top by itself and had a red, blue, faded orange, and a 4th sling with 2 rap rings. Given they were fairly crisp, we added a red sling but forget the lighter to melt its cut end.

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