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Better Than Bikinis T 
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Dark of the Moon S 
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Fool's Paradise S 
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Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 
Why a Duck? S 

Better Than Bikinis 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 480'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Calderone, John Lane 2009
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: zoso on Nov 2, 2016

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  • Description 

    A well protected Tony route? Yup. This is just left of Western Grebe and climbs for 5 pitches total (if the definition of "pitch" includes steep walking heh heh).

    I'd recommend pitches 1 and 2 with P2 being the $$. The others aren't as good as P3 and P4 of WG.

    P1: Pad up to 2 bolts and maybe a cam until the angle eases. There's a 2 bolt anchor here for some reason (to rap with a 60m?) but it is lacking chains. Keep going until you are just below the obvious ledge and clip the chains. 5.7. This made more sense than what the topo shows imo.

    P2: Best pitch by far. This is the R-facing dihedral on the same slab as WG P2. All gear; micros to #2 C4. The book shows 2 pins, I saw none. I used a #2 Lowball on one stretch where the crack was too thin/parallel for anything else. Corner can be a bit wet. 5.8?

    P3: Look for a bolt at a weakness through a roof. The rock is pretty grungy here and there's a loose block that can be easily avoided (please trundle). Clip the bolt and make an awkward move right. Ramble up to a bolt, gear, then chains.

    P4 Option 1: 3 bolts/gear straight up. When you hit a dirty ledge, cut left a bit for 20 more feet of 5.7 slab with a bolt. Look for a rusty anchor sitting in a water runnel. This anchor would be much much nicer if it were 2 feet higher. Weird.

    P4 Option 2: Cut hard left to a slab with a lone bolt. Join the above option at the dirty ledge.

    P5: Kinda silly really. Walk (class 5...I guess) straight up low angle slab. Kinda tempting though as it's good rock versus the last 2 pitches.

    Location 

    Slab just left of WG.
    All anchors are chains and the whole route can be rapped with 1 rope. If using a 60m, use the anchors for WG instead for the last rap to terra firma.

    Protection 

    Micros to #2 C4. I was glad I had a #2 Loweball, but a good climber might be fine without such.


    Comments on Better Than Bikinis Add Comment
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    By greggrylls
    Nov 6, 2016

    The last "pitch" is great if you've always wished your treadmill inclined just a bit more.

    The other pitches are good. Careful where you stand their was some water seeping by the belays.

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