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Better Red than Dead T 
Blood on the Nuts T 
Country Lovin T 
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Fibrulator T 
Gizmo T 
Jim's Dihedral T 
Slimy Creatures T 

Better Red than Dead 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bart Bledsoe
Page Views: 311
Submitted By: David Aguasca! on Oct 21, 2016

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Pulling off the ledge.

Description 

The kind of route which elicits the response, "What is THAT thing?" as most 20+ foot offwidth roofs do. A must do for those interested in hard wide climbing. Considering how little traffic this route gets, it's a wonder it isn't totally overgrown (unlike the 5.8 approach pitch).

Climb either Not Ice or a dirty/loose 5.8 crack to the left of it and belay right below the roof. Proceed through handstacks and kickthroughs, finishing with a strenuous pivot into the chimney.

Location 

50 yards right of Slimy Creatures is an enormous roof with a big crack in it. You can't miss it!

Protection 

Two bolt belay, could be backed up with .75 and 1 camalots. The crack itself takes a 2 camalot, with doubles of 4, 5, and 6.


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