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Redgarden - Tower One
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Better Layton Never 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Justen Sjong, Eric Johnson
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 1,408
Submitted By: EDJ on May 15, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Ramp Cave.

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  • Description 

    This is a steep route with good holds. Bring biceps!

    Location 

    Approach via any climb that gains the Upper Ramp, and locate the large cave at the top of the Upper Ramp "meadow". This is the obvious bolt line to the left of Exhibit A with the first one being well off the deck on an easy slab.

    Protection 

    5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor over the lip.


    Comments on Better Layton Never Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By EDJ
    From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
    May 15, 2014

    Thanks to A.C.E. and the state park for the hardware and otherwise facilitating the new route process. Have fun!
    By Stefan Griebel
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jun 2, 2014
    rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

    That big block just hanging up there between bolts 1 and 2 is freaking scary! Does it move/flex, or was it just my psyche going nuts when I was hanging upside-down on it?!

    Maybe I just need more time to figure out the beta, but even relative to other Eldo 12b's (e.g. Scary Canary, Hairstyles, Song of the Dodo), this felt much harder. Perhaps even harder than Your Mother. I honestly would not be surprised to see it get a 13-.
    By Aaron Ramras
    Sep 18, 2017
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    5.12 seemed about right to me; however, I agree with Stefan...the block took all the fun out of this one for me personally...yikes.

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