Better Eat Your Wheaties
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The climbing begins near the arete on the second spire after you reach the Far Side. There's an overhung section about 12 feet of the ground that has 1 bolt before you pull the overhang. The blocky rock below the bolt can be loose in places.
After the first overhang, solo up and left on 5.5 to another overhung section. This one has a bolt for the lower part of the section, and another before the route's crux. After pulling the crux, another 15' of runout moderate climbing leads to the anchors.
The crux boulder problem is fun, but the climb is not spectacular by any means.
3 Bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The hard moves are protected by bolts, but falling on the overhung move below the 3rd bolt would be painful as a slab would catch your fall before the rope does.
Also, try not to lower your partner into the sharp-ass trees near the base of the climb. They HURT! (you know who you are)
By Mike Ferrell
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 20, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
The climb itself is not very difficult, but running out between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it feel much tougher thanks to a certain ground fall if you slip.