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The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
5.8 TR 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the Right T 
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Forrester's Crack T 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Ivory Coast S,TR 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpio Rising  S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 

Better Eat Your Wheaties 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 638
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 12, 2002

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Description 

The climbing begins near the arete on the second spire after you reach the Far Side. There's an overhung section about 12 feet of the ground that has 1 bolt before you pull the overhang. The blocky rock below the bolt can be loose in places.

After the first overhang, solo up and left on 5.5 to another overhung section. This one has a bolt for the lower part of the section, and another before the route's crux. After pulling the crux, another 15' of runout moderate climbing leads to the anchors.

The crux boulder problem is fun, but the climb is not spectacular by any means.

Protection 

3 Bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The hard moves are protected by bolts, but falling on the overhung move below the 3rd bolt would be painful as a slab would catch your fall before the rope does.

Also, try not to lower your partner into the sharp-ass trees near the base of the climb. They HURT! (you know who you are)


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By Mike Ferrell
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 20, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

The climb itself is not very difficult, but running out between the 2nd and 3rd bolts makes it feel much tougher thanks to a certain ground fall if you slip.