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BETA PHOTO: Hara-Kari in a combine with Beta Junkie to the rig...
|Seasonal Raptor Closures.|
Anyone who can tell me how to actually climb this route gets a gold star. Bolts go straight up a blank face with only an occasional hold. You have to climb far left or right of the bolt-line to reach the top; I crossed the bolt-line several times but rarely climbed on it. Once you reach the top, clip the last bolt as you commit to the juggy roof. After pulling the roof, you will reach a tenuous stance 5 ft below the chains. Imagine your face smashing into the roof below your feet if you fall and curse whoever decided not to protect this section with a bolt. Flail up towards the chains.
- *Edit: Just to clarify, this is not a PG13, R, or X rated route. My point is that it is a heady route that is difficult to read and a scary fall if you blow it at the top. I would not put a 5.9 or even a weak 5.10 climber on this. You decide for yourself.
Middle of the Tall Cliffs, 20 feet left of the large painted 8. See picture.
6 bolts to chains.
By Smith Kennedy
Aug 31, 2015
I seem to recall finding some thin gear after the roof before the anchors - Lowe Balls are sticking in my head (very useful on a number of Black Cliffs routes with inadequate "sport route" bolting jobs.
From: Cheyenne, WY
Oct 2, 2015
That's a pretty melodramatic description of the route. Good sense and an adequate belay are more than enough to finish this route safely.
By zach cook
From: Boise, ID
Feb 7, 2016
This route is not a gimme for the grade, but it is MORE than safe. I found veering left right after the roof, and then immediately right. or just try hard. The description is a tad melodramatic, no such danger on this sport line.