REI Community
Tall Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balloon Party TR 
Beta Junkie S 
Circumciser S 
Dolly TR 
Fly the Friendly Skies T 
Full Tilt Boogie S 
Grandpa's Route S 
Hara-Kiri in a Combine S 
Horrible Human History T 
In Cahoots TR 
Jet Screamin' Hooter Queens S 
Joe Pro T 
Muchachas Borrachas S 
My Stinky Hole S 
Number Eight S 
Number Eight Left T 
Raptor Arete T 
Rosy Palms T 
Thanks for the Mammaries S 
Unknown bolted route between Number Eight and Dolly S 

Beta Junkie 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Fritz, Bedell 1989
Season: All day son
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: CHopwood on Oct 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Hara-Kari in a combine with Beta Junkie to the rig...

Seasonal Raptor Closures.


Anyone who can tell me how to actually climb this route gets a gold star. Bolts go straight up a blank face with only an occasional hold. You have to climb far left or right of the bolt-line to reach the top; I crossed the bolt-line several times but rarely climbed on it. Once you reach the top, clip the last bolt as you commit to the juggy roof. After pulling the roof, you will reach a tenuous stance 5 ft below the chains. Imagine your face smashing into the roof below your feet if you fall and curse whoever decided not to protect this section with a bolt. Flail up towards the chains.
  • *Edit: Just to clarify, this is not a PG13, R, or X rated route. My point is that it is a heady route that is difficult to read and a scary fall if you blow it at the top. I would not put a 5.9 or even a weak 5.10 climber on this. You decide for yourself.


Middle of the Tall Cliffs, 20 feet left of the large painted 8. See picture.


6 bolts to chains.

Photos of Beta Junkie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route, Beta Junkie
The route, Beta Junkie

Comments on Beta Junkie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Smith Kennedy
Aug 31, 2015

I seem to recall finding some thin gear after the roof before the anchors - Lowe Balls are sticking in my head (very useful on a number of Black Cliffs routes with inadequate "sport route" bolting jobs.
By Wilburn
From: Cheyenne, WY
Oct 2, 2015

That's a pretty melodramatic description of the route. Good sense and an adequate belay are more than enough to finish this route safely.
By zach cook
From: Boise, ID
Feb 7, 2016

This route is not a gimme for the grade, but it is MORE than safe. I found veering left right after the roof, and then immediately right. or just try hard. The description is a tad melodramatic, no such danger on this sport line.
By Paul Hutton
From: Dirtbaggin' western US
Nov 1, 2016

Quite a runout from the last bolt to the anchor, but the last bolt is in the overhang, extended away from the vertical wall. This means that if you fall anywhere in the steep roof section, you'll clear the roof, and not get whipped hard into the wall.

The description for this page was written by a tense, dramatic newb.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About