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Best Sunny LONG multipitch routes?
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Nov 5, 2012
I get cold easily, especially belaying in the shade.
Any advice for sunny long multipitch climbs in RR now that the weather is getting colder? (trad or sport 400ft+ preferably)
Caitlin Mac
From Tempe
Joined Oct 16, 2011
75 points
Nov 5, 2012
Plenty in oak creek canyon on solar slab. Lots of good stuff on brownstone wall south. Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined May 8, 2011
120 points
Nov 5, 2012
Jubilant Song matt davies
Joined Mar 9, 2007
0 points
Nov 6, 2012
what grade range are you looking for?...there are approx 100 400'+ tall in the sun... Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
75 points
Nov 6, 2012
mostly within 5.10 range, but classic 5.9's, or low 5.11 range would definitely be considered. Caitlin Mac
From Tempe
Joined Oct 16, 2011
75 points
Nov 6, 2012
Check out the sticky in the Nevada section if you haven't already. Great resource without having to wait for answers. mountainproject.com/v/frequent... TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Joined Jun 2, 2009
2,393 points
Nov 6, 2012
I'm curious as well, particularly climbs that are outside of the recreation area itself (so I can bring my dog). Jason N.
From Grand Junction
Joined Mar 18, 2011
0 points
Nov 6, 2012
This is my index page (sorted north to south, grade and # of pitches listed) of climbs I have personally climbed at Red Rock. Below are in the grade range you are looking for that are my favorites with full sun...I am in Cochise Stronghold as I type, middle of a cow pasture...and we have been way to hot in the sun this week. Last week I climbed a long route at RR, Celtic Cracks, climbing in shade with short sleeves for over 2000'.....so it is a bit warmer than normal for Nov. Good luck with your climbing.

Orange Clonus, 5.10d
Brass Balls, 5.10d
Spectrum, 5.11a
Ten Minute Shift, 5.11b
Mayday Malefactor, 5.10c
Sweet Thin, 5.9
Requiem for a Tad Pole, 5.9
Friedas Flake, 5.9
Beulah's Book, 5.9
Sundog, 5.10a
Sunflower, 5.9
Arch Enemy, 5.9
Solar Flare, 5.10c
Mountain Beast, 5.11a
Eagle Dance, 5.10c
Coltrane, 5.9
Hot Fudge Thursday, 5.9
Western Swing, 5.10b
Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
75 points
Nov 6, 2012
think it's supposed to snow the next few days... remember to let the rock dry NickinCO Mardi
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
40 points
Nov 7, 2012
Thanks so much for all the recommendations!
Dow, was just at Cochise, what did you hop on?
Caitlin Mac
From Tempe
Joined Oct 16, 2011
75 points
Nov 7, 2012
Jason N. wrote:
I'm curious as well, particularly climbs that are outside of the recreation area itself (so I can bring my dog).

I'm guessing that by recreation area, you mean the scenic drive? Dogs are permitted in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Generally a good idea to have them leashed if there are other folks around, unless they're super chill. Generally poor form to leave them at the base of popular routes for 8 hrs (not meaning this as a comment directed at you personally), but some dogs are fine with that. Some of the less popular areas are great to take dogs, so long as they don't dig up the place and/or disturb the wildlife (Brass Wall and sometimes Solar Slab area have lots of bighorns hanging out). Heads up for the cacti though... Spent way too much time in RR picking spines out of paws...
smassey
From CO
Joined Dec 2, 2008
170 points
Nov 7, 2012
Caitlin MacMurtrie wrote:
Thanks so much for all the recommendations! Dow, was just at Cochise, what did you hop on?


Crackaholics, Mystery, Absinthe...moderate standard trad climbs on the west side...closest I ever been bitten by a rattlesnake in 20+ encounters happened yesterday..border patrol is all over this place...only folks we have seen other than one rancher dude who had two holstered revolvers, a 30/30 rifle sitting next to him...and an ammunition belt on his person...said "they" killed his dog....wild west shit out here
Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
75 points
Nov 9, 2012
Dow, it seems you climb many days of the year, am I right? How to you make time, or more importantly fund climbing this much? I am pretty young but have fallen in love with climbing and am trying to learn from people who make it a livable life. Caitlin Mac
From Tempe
Joined Oct 16, 2011
75 points
Nov 9, 2012
Caitlin MacMurtrie wrote:
Dow, it seems you climb many days of the year, am I right? How to you make time, or more importantly fund climbing this much? I am pretty young but have fallen in love with climbing and am trying to learn from people who make it a livable life.


It is a long and personal story best told on an approach to a climb. I am always out and about in the desert somewhere this time of year.
Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
75 points
Nov 9, 2012
That is a story I would really like to hear sometime. cassondra long
Joined Nov 26, 2008
90 points
Nov 9, 2012
Dow Williams wrote:
Crackaholics, Mystery, Absinthe...moderate standard trad climbs on the west side...closest I ever been bitten by a rattlesnake in 20+ encounters happened yesterday..border patrol is all over this place...only folks we have seen other than one rancher dude who had two holstered revolvers, a 30/30 rifle sitting next to him...and an ammunition belt on his person...said "they" killed his dog....wild west shit out here


Damn, never seen any border patrol (or even a ranger) or any rattle snacks and I've been there almost a dozen times climbing in the canyons.
NickinCO Mardi
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
40 points
Nov 9, 2012
in fairness to the snake, I was descending the north side of Muttonhead...I advise the beaten path between Sheepshead where I sent my partner...I do things like that for beta publishing purposes...(looked like our (Moab) Pygmy Faded, but should not be that far south)first snake I have ever seen this late in the season anywhere--snakes hibernate

don't know what is normal for border patrol...German Shepard searched my rig, end to end, at a patrol stop just north of Tombstone...drove down Middlemarch once, camped, out once...both drives in and out, met border patrol going and coming...something going on I suppose.

rancher sounded a bit paranoid to me...was upset over a friend getting killed by drug runners on an atv in the last year?...and upset about his dog being shot...don't know if those are true stories or not...about a 70yr old gentlemen loaded to the gills, kind enough to give my partner a jump as I was already gone from the site

...we had all the climbs I mentioned above to ourselves, no other folks...I only ever climb in such places mid week though, so not uncommon, assume the east side gets more tourist traffic......I loved the peace and the camping.....interesting bolting ethics...running cows on that Gov lease is bs in today's world...but not here to argue either one of those topics...to each his/her own...not my local crag...Square Top one beautiful spot in the desert..enjoyed the color this time of year immensely...
Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
75 points


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