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Best Route Ever 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Lynn Sanson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 797
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Dec 12, 2014

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Upper tips corner!

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    "Best Route Ever" is what the late great Dave Pegg would express after any new route he had completed once returning home! Fun mixed route! Early on in the pitch there are a couple of bolts that were placed. Falling onto trad gear there would explode the flake making the route unclimbable.
    The route was put up ground up, in my personal opinion going ground up on mixed routes tends to make for a better flow to the route! Half way up the pitch after a short hands section we busted right do to rock quality in the bulge. Higher up on the pitch a super fun slanting tips crack is encountered. We did not clean out right of this system FYI. This pitch is 30 meters on the nose , don't use a short 60meter rope!

    Location 

    "B R E " begins on the top of "Points West". From the top of "Points West " head up and right towards a left facing corner.

    Protection 

    00 BD C3
    .3 BD x 2
    .4 BD x 3
    .5 BD x 1
    .75 BD x 1
    2 BD x 1
    10 Quick Draws


    Photos of Best Route Ever Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lynn going ground up!
    Lynn going ground up!

    Comments on Best Route Ever Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Lynn S
    Mar 26, 2015

    Very fun pitch with each third offering its own unique challenges. For the upper thin crack I used 2 blue BD X4's, a yellow X4, .3 C4 and .4 C4.
    By aparnas
    Dec 6, 2016

    Climbed this today (I was working on Bolts to Bumpyland, but Josh and Lynn happened to be there and recommended that I try BRE) and it is super fun. The upper tips crack can be protected solely with stoppers, which is pretty rad, especially if your rack is light on thin cams. Belayer should wear a helmet, as there is a bit of loose stuff on the route.

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