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"Best" offwidth AZ?
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Apr 2, 2014
Votes? Anyone climb any off widths in AZ that they'd like to recommend? drewp
Joined Jul 16, 2012
45 points
Apr 2, 2014
A few nice ones off the top of my head:
-Darkstar at Winslow Wall
-Ultimate Offwidth at Pumphouse Wash
-the 2nd pitch of Abracadaver at Cochise
-Fat Bastard in Sedona

There are many others I'm forgetting. Hope that helps.
From Phoenix
Joined May 16, 2006
2,540 points
Apr 2, 2014
Also, I second Darkstar. Very sexy line.
Sagar Gondalia
From Golden
Joined Jun 11, 2006
5 points
Apr 2, 2014
Not much of a off-width climber myself but these two come to mind:

Cragaholic's Dream (Southern AZ, Cochise Stronghold)
Shake N Bake (Southern AZ, Cochise Stronghold)
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Sep 1, 2007
3,205 points
Apr 2, 2014
Lots of good OW in West Clear Creek that would be nice to get on.

Sedona has Book of Friends (do it in three pitches or run it out) and the Great Dihedral with four 5.10 OW pitches in a row.

Pinnacle Peak has a couple too. Deliverance and Beelzebub if you like hard OW.

I think Darkstar in WW is one of the coolest too.
manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Joined Jan 27, 2006
3,510 points
Apr 2, 2014
Pinnacle Peak also has Y-Crack, kind of a beginner OW, and Hades, which is pretty doable as well.

The Mace in Sedona has some sections to learn a little bit of beginner OW as well.
Greg Opland
Joined Nov 14, 2001
85 points
Apr 2, 2014
Dark Star is offwidth size but doesn't climb like one due to it's leaning nature and features. I only did one or two offwidth moves on that pitch. Maybe the others that posted here climbed it differently than I did.

The 2nd pitch of Abra is full-on chicken wings and armbars forever. Full value offwidth.

Shameless plug for my route The Ultimator
To my knowledge it hasn't seen a 2nd ascent yet.
Eric D
From Gnarnia
Joined Nov 29, 2006
115 points
Apr 2, 2014
Fat Bastard is consistent heel toe stacked on the other foot with strenuous chicken-wing/downward arm bars. Don't have the gear (or inclination or ability) to try lead it, but getting it clean on top rope was work and felt like the purest off-width I've tried. md3
Joined Jun 2, 2006
10 points
Apr 2, 2014
The 2nd pitch of the prosecutor in Sedona is a pretty awesome offwidth.
Forks Flyer at Paradise forks goes from fingers into overhanging 4.5's and is amazing. The tunnel boulder problem at west elden has an offwidth inversion at the end!

Eric, stoked to try to give the ultimator a second ascent this summer!
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Jun 18, 2006
760 points
Apr 2, 2014
another vote for p2 of abracadaver Jack Ubaek
From tucson
Joined Apr 13, 2011
0 points
Apr 2, 2014
for the GNAR, another vote for the Ultimator as a recommendation. Though i think 11+ is a bit of a sandbag. and is more of true OW than Ultimate OW.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ultimator
The Ultimator
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
2,810 points
Apr 2, 2014
Darren Mabe wrote:
for the GNAR, another vote for the Ultimator as a recommendation. Though i think 11+ is a bit of a sandbag. and is more of true OW than Ultimate OW.

Well that looks pretty intimidiating.

Guess I'll have to go try Y crack this weekend too.
Joined Jul 16, 2012
45 points
Apr 2, 2014
Best or hardest....? Not always the same in my book, but here are two of the best that I've climbed, and on the opposite side of the same chunk of stone
Dean Hoffman
Joined Feb 1, 2006
1,065 points
Apr 3, 2014
Was wondering when youd post those up dean!!! +1 for safecracker!! Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
2,810 points
Apr 5, 2014
Jump Back Jack at Granite Mtn. George Bracksieck
Joined Oct 4, 2008
1,125 points
Apr 6, 2014
Uncle fister at the waterfall sho is purdy. Not on mp. In bloom's book JMo
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 12, 2009
770 points
Apr 6, 2014
Spout Route on the north side of Coffee Pot, pg245 in the Sedona Rocks book. I haven't climbed some of the other routes mentioned above but I would put some serious money on this one being the most sustained and longest. Climbing this O/W was a gift. The downside is ~300 ft of R/X climbing to get to it. I hear "Thrown to the Gods" (damfino spire) in Sedona is supposed to be really good too. I can let you know is a week or two if it lives up to its name. Ryan Z
Joined May 7, 2012
120 points
Apr 30, 2014
George Bracksieck wrote:
Jump Back Jack at Granite Mtn.

- This was the ultimate OW for years. Much more doable with modern gear.
Guess you can say that about most offwidths.

Sedona is the land of OWs and Squeeze. I can't think of very many multi-pitch climbs that don't have some wide on them.
Spout Route is the obvious gem.
The Sedona classic, Earth Angel has at least two pitches of wide climbing.

Some lesser known ones but worth doing:
The classic one that very few people have done?
Chimney Rock, in the middle of Sedona, west side.
The original Bob Kamps (Kamps?) route is rated 5.7
ha ha ha ha hahahahaha
Classic old school. Probably done during his late 1950's trip.
Go do it!

Oak Creek:
King Tut - upper OC - 5.9?
Bernt Buns - upper OC - 5.10 (between B of F and Dresdoom I think)
Sand Castle - 5.10 - obvious wall above slide rock to the south. stellar finger crack first pitch, crazy roof to offwidth second pitch (hate to give that away) Odd this climb has not seen more ascents.
Schnebly Area:
Mooses Butte - original line - 2nd or 3rd? pitch is a fun squeeze and chimney stuff
Temple of Dianna - 10+/11 few pitches of good wide climbing.
Margs Draw:
Mesita - long walk? 5.9/5.10 (never did this one)
Screaming Basengi,
Direct start on Firecat - 5.9+
Teaser up behind Firecat has an easy chimney
Grand Orcufus - not sure, I believe this has wide stuff....
Apology to the Child - way up in Margs draw - 5.9/10 ? Long long walk for 2 pitches...
White Wizard - 5.11? - serious stuff - way in there (big coke wall way up east) first led by Ross Hardwick on an early attempt. When Tim Coates and I finished the route, Tim led the OW pitch (2nd) and I thought it was bloody desperate.

Coffee Pot original line has some easy wide to start.
Dreams Come True? behind Dr. Rubos...

the list can go on and on
If you want to climb wide, Sedona and the Grand Canyon are the places.

But odd, no one has mentioned the classic Stronghold wide route:
Kneed Me. Probably because it's rarely done.
I'd vote Abra and Shake&Bake also. Very good stuff.

But, if you want to bag a real plum and make a name fer yourself:
the third ascent of DeVoid is sitting out there... The first two ascents were Grossman and Fiola or Fiola and Grossman who did it twice to give Dave Baker a rope up it and get him on top of Chey! Now that is about as serious as the wide gets, by all accounts. I was never too drawn to launching onto 150 ft of wide wide (up to full body) trying to find the one bolt or two on the pitch in the dark depths of the Stronghold maws. Even Geir hasn't launched onto this old hardman route and he's been picking off the other plumbs ;-)
Paul Davidson
Joined Jan 22, 2007
585 points
Apr 30, 2014
Sullivan's canyon: four wide cracks side by side in the hot spot area, ranging from 4 to 12 inches. sword of Damocles is 5.11 and the smallest, potluck is 10b, and takes valley giants in the 9 inch size. Brian Boyd
From Kowloon, Hong Kong
Joined Oct 4, 2005
2,755 points
May 1, 2014
Paul…. Do you have any more information on DeVoid???

BTW the thrown of the gods is a sweet O/W. Although it is pretty chill.
Ryan Z
Joined May 7, 2012
120 points
May 1, 2014
DeVoid: I believe you start in the Inner Passage and climb up.
I'll see what can Steve can remember about any actual pitches.
I do believe this is a climb you probably want to be at least 6ft on.
I rarely believe statements like that but they were doing full body stems.
Paul Davidson
Joined Jan 22, 2007
585 points

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