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Best Multi-Pitch Sport Routes in North America
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Jul 10, 2012
For a day out in a beautiful setting and fun face climbing you can't beat this:
Joined Nov 11, 2010
295 points
Jul 24, 2012
20 kN wrote:
Although a fun route, that is not a sport climb. That thing is R/X. When I climbed it I remember two pitches where the only pro was the belay station, I was runout 120' with no pro. Granted I may have missed a bolt, but so did the four guys behind me. But most of it is fairly well bolted. Just know that there are some easier moves where if you fall, well, lets say I hope you have health insurance. Also, there is some serious rock fall on that thing once and awhile. A party 1500' above us dislodged a rock which ended up bringing a landslide down on me and another party. Out of four people, I was the only one that did not get hit by the rock fall. I was astonished no one was seriously injured, the rock fall was serious enough to wipe all four of us off the the grid. We were lucky that were in a small alcove, so a lot of the rock flew a few feet over our heads. None, the less it was a fun route. Just don't approach it as a sport climb, as it is not.

I believe you're talking about pitches 14 & 15 or either 15 & 16. From what I recall those were pretty close to 4th class scrambling for those sections. I have a great topo for the whole route that my friend and I made that actually has really easy-to-follow directions. I'll try to find it when I get home and see what I can do to upload it on here.

In response to the person who said you have to rap it and it sucks. While I agree that it does absoultely suck to rap the whole 23 pitches, did it once, it's actually possible to walk off the top. It's a bit tricky to figure out at first when you're up there but if you hunt around a bit at the top you can find a pretty simple walkoff that goes down sort of climber's right.
Casey in SLC
From SLC, UT
Joined Jun 10, 2012
0 points
Jul 24, 2012
Peter Rakowitz wrote:


Great Route.
Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Joined Jul 11, 2008
3 points

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