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May 17, 2011
My 9.8 is getting worn out, so time for a new rope. I want something lighter for remote climbs and technical mountaineering, but also looking for the most durable rope in the 9.2-9.5 range. Also, dry is a must.

What is your experience?
Tim Zander
Joined Sep 27, 2010
0 points
May 17, 2011
Sterling Ion2 or the Edelrid Falcon are my two favorite 9.4 lines.

The Sterling Nano may also be an option- the folks I know who use it rave about its durability for a 9.2mm line.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
1,495 points
May 17, 2011
The Mammut Infinity 9.5mm is a solid rope. I have owned 4 of these in the past. They are not the lightest, but you will find more uses for them besides light weight alpine days. Guy H.
From Fort Collins CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
6,751 points
May 17, 2011
+1 for the Sterling Ion. Cole Phinney
From Sheridan, Wy
Joined Feb 1, 2010
0 points
May 17, 2011
+1 for the Mammut Infinity 9.5
Have had very good luck

Mammut also has the Revelation at 9.2
Unassigned User
Joined Dec 31, 1969
0 points
May 17, 2011
I've been beating on my 9.2mm Edelwiess Performance for nearly four years now....just trimmed the ends and I think I might get four more years out of it...well, maybe not, but you get the idea.

On Sale at Bentgate....
UncleBen
From Steele, AL
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,430 points
May 17, 2011
+1 Mammut Infinity JonathanC Callahan
From CO
Joined May 14, 2008
0 points
May 17, 2011
Sterling Nano is a GREAT thin cord! Love mine, light durable and confidence inspiring (for a 9.2) Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Joined Mar 14, 2010
728 points
May 17, 2011
+1 for Mammut 9.5

-10 for Mammut 9.2, friend had one that got shredded a little too quick for my liking
S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
15 points
May 17, 2011
BirminghamBen wrote:
I've been beating on my 9.2mm Edelwiess Performance for nearly four years now....just trimmed the ends and I think I might get four more years out of it...well, maybe not, but you get the idea. On Sale at Bentgate....


My Edelwiess Performance was definitely an excellent workhorse, and pretty inexpensive. It didn't have the “sweet” feeling that my PMI 9.4 mm did, but it was a good bit less pricey and I had no complaints about it. Sterling and Mammut make great ropes but Edelwiess's cords can generally be found for a bit less coin. Check out justropes.com for deals, they often have old colors of nice ropes for good prices.
Aaron Martinuzzi
Joined Apr 15, 2008
1,420 points
May 18, 2011
I'm aware of quite a few ropes that fit the specifications of yours. I've personally been using Beal Joker for a few years, which is slightly thinner i.e. 9.1 mm, as a single. I've been pretty happy with it. It's good quality, reasonably light, durable, easy to feed and can be used in half / twin configurations as well...

Out of those others particularly Monster Ropes / Tendon Master 9.2 (actually a same rope) and perhaps Sterling Rope Fusion Nano seem interesting alternatives. First offering low weight / low impact force combination and second being even lighter. If you'd be prepared to go with an even skinnier rope, I'd consider also Edelweiss Extrem II, that has lower impact force than the ones mentioned above... being very skinny that might come at the expense of durability though it has the sharp edge protection.

As I have good experiences with Edelweiss, especially in terms of durability, I would probably take Extrem II anyways and give it a try. :-)

In case you're interested of comparing the specifications, I've collected a list of <9.5 mm ropes that I'm aware of here
Juho Risku
Joined Jan 4, 2011
0 points
May 18, 2011
sterling nano. Its awesome i climbed on it all last sumer and its still going strong. Ted Kryzer
From Rochester, MN
Joined Jul 29, 2008
0 points
May 18, 2011
Mammut Infinity. Holds up better than some of my 10mm's. TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Joined Jun 2, 2009
2,393 points
May 18, 2011
I'm really happy with my Mammut Infinity so far (5 months) Larry S
From Easton, Pennsylvania
Joined May 28, 2010
575 points
Administrator
May 18, 2011
+1 Mammut Infinity (9.5mmx70m)

Had a Galaxy for years, decided to cut some weight and got myself a new rope. No issues yet.

9.2 Revelation 6-7 55g/m 9.3kN 7.2%
9.5 Infinity 7-8 58g/m 9.1kN 6.8%
10 Galaxy 8-9 66g/m 9.2kN 7%
Luc-514
From Montreal, Quebec
Joined Nov 27, 2006
8,318 points
May 18, 2011
My bluewater 9.4 still hangs on as one of the best ropes I have ever owned. I said it 2 years ago in the same discussion and STILL say it now- and I'm talking about the same rope I was using then... it's that good. Handles like a dream, wears like steel. Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
21,610 points
May 18, 2011
Luc wrote:
+1 Mammut Infinity (9.5mmx70m)

best rope ever
Red
From Tacoma, Toyota
Joined Sep 11, 2008
1,348 points
May 18, 2011
Just heaping on more praise for the Mammut Infinity. It is a workhorse. Same construction as the Mammut Supersafe, which is widely regarded as one of the most durable ropes around. The catches are slightly harsher than other ropes I've used though redlude97
Joined Jun 21, 2010
0 points
May 18, 2011
Sounds like tons of people are fans of the Sterling 9.2, but I'm not sure I'd recommend it. We had multiple core shots after less than two days (~40 pitches) of climbing this winter, and I know of at least three other parties who had similar experiences.

I think that the sheath is kinda flimsy. Much more than other ultra-skinny lines I've used, it tends to go from a "keep-an-eye-on-that" soft spot to an "oh-my-god" six-inch long core shot within a day.

Rock Climbing Photo: the remains of a sterling 9.2
the remains of a sterling 9.2
Scott Bennett
Joined Jan 9, 2008
945 points
May 18, 2011
redlude97 wrote:
Just heaping on more praise for the Mammut Infinity. It is a workhorse. Same construction as the Mammut Supersafe, which is widely regarded as one of the most durable ropes around. The catches are slightly harsher than other ropes I've used though


Slightly heavier than Mammut claims. My 60m is 8.5 pounds brand new.
Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
0 points
May 18, 2011
Ray Pinpillage wrote:
Slightly heavier than Mammut claims. My 60m is 8.5 pounds brand new.


Mammut cuts their ropes long to allow for shrinkage with use. This might explain part of the weight difference.
Guy H.
From Fort Collins CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
6,751 points
May 18, 2011
Scott Bennett wrote:
Sounds like tons of people are fans of the Sterling 9.2, but I'm not sure I'd recommend it. We had multiple core shots after less than two days (~40 pitches) of climbing this winter, and I know of at least three other parties who had similar experiences. I think that the sheath is kinda flimsy. Much more than other ultra-skinny lines I've used, it tends to go from a "keep-an-eye-on-that" soft spot to an "oh-my-god" six-inch long core shot within a day.


+1

Haven't core shot mine yet, but the sheath was already looking pitiful after maybe ~20 pitches.
Tyler Wick
From Bishop, CA
Joined Oct 8, 2010
50 points
May 18, 2011
+1 for the sterling ion

definitley a great great rope and very durable
Richard88
From Sheridan, WY
Joined Dec 13, 2009
0 points
May 20, 2011
Sterling Ion or Bluewater Hyalite. Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
740 points
May 20, 2011
Ive been quite pleased with my 9.1 Beal Joker. Durability has been better than I figured on. I use it mostly as my Alpine rock rope; very little top roping/craging on it and I feel thats a pretty good use for it.
I sure wouldnt reccomend it as your only rope though...

Oh, I also second the Mammut Infinity. One of most favorite ropes Ive had. Much more of a all arounder rope than the joker.
mtnkid85
Joined Jun 3, 2008
0 points
May 21, 2011
i love my sterling 9.8 70 meter, its not super light but it is as light at my 10.2 edelwies, handles great and i have a lot more than 40 pitches on it with no troubles. I also feel like a little moer peice of mind is worth hauling an extra 2.5 pounds Martin Harris
Joined Jan 3, 2016
95 points


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