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Best intro to crack climbing?

Original Post
Bill Flaherty · · San Diego, CA · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 135

I have a buddy coming for a winter visit from Switzerland. He is a solid limestone climber who wants to pick up some crack climbing experience. Which areas have some good easy cracks to introduce him to the game?

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

saw that you are from evergreen, and i was going to answer 'turkey perch', but then saw that you are posting to utah. i'd like to change my answer to 'blue gramma' at IC. a little shady in the morning, but the cracks are short, good quality for their length, and cover the sizes.

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

Did you want suggestions in the "Utah Deserts"? If so, I've found the Ice Cream Parlor along Kane Creek in Moab to be a good place for beginners...it has slabby splitter cracks (5.7-5.8 I recall). If the person is strong, just go to IC. They'll learn to jam or lose a few pints of blood.

Bill Flaherty · · San Diego, CA · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 135

Yeah, I wanted him to check out the desert... Ice Cream Parlor looks like a perfect intro. Thanks.

BenCooper · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 585

Second the recommendation for ice cream parlor. Also, check out the decent selection of cracks on potash road. Specifically, the nice hand crack of Potash Bong Hit, some varied crack climbing on Flakes of Wrath, a bit of thrutching on Bad Moki Roof...really, the list goes on. I recommend checking out MP's Potash Rd. section. Should be of great assistance. Also, note that the climbs are directly off the road, so heads up.

-Ben

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i dont know man, taking a virgin to moab and then climbing at kane creek or potash is like going to rome for your first time and checking out cheezy modern day church in the suburbs. there is another phrase that comes to mind, something to the effect of doing something inglamorous at a house of ill repute...

Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250

I second Slim. If your friend is a "solid limestone climber," his hand strength and endurance are good, which is more than enough to struggle up the perfect size cracks, which are the ones you should choose.

My first trip to Indian Creek in the early 80's, I led Super Crack and in cocky excitement called it "physical...the hardest damn 5.6 I've ever climbed!" Lame, but the valid point is the moves are no mystery. Don't throw your friend at off-sizes like Coyne Crack or its wide counterparts, and he'll be fine. He doesn't need the well-intentioned training wheels blocking him from some of the most amazing climbs in the world.

EDIT:

Mike Anderson said it better when he wrote:If the person is strong, just go to IC. They'll learn to jam or lose a few pints of blood.
Dan Dalton · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 1,465

It depends on how solid your partner is. If I were you, I would plan a day or two at Eldo. You can do whatever you fancy, you could get in a few longer routes, but the availability of quality single pitch climbing is also quite abundant. Eldo is a great intro to crack since it is not continuous crack. Your partner will have the chance to try finger cracks, handjams, fist jams, etc. all with a variety of face holds in between.

If he seems to like it, then go to the Desert!! It still might be a little early to climb out there since it is still so hot, but classic splitter cracks of all size await in a wierd sort of 'sport-trad' feel. If things get too hard, who cares, any splitter becomes C1 immediately!

I know that he would love to see Indian Creek too because it is like nothing at all in europe! I'm from Germany, and having had several friends come out to the states from there, know what a great time they always have on a roadtrip to Utah.

Good luck with whatever you choose! Have fun!

Bill Duncan · · Glade Park, CO · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 3,410

If you're heading to the Creek, why not enjoy a tower while you're there. There in the not-too-distant-background is South Six Shooter, with a selection of very reasonable cracks. This would seem a very nice addition to someone's first desert trip.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

dan is on crack, you have to throw a baby into a river if the baby is ever going to learn how to swim. plus, your partner didn't travel half way around the world to wank around on choss. duncan has a great backup plan too, if the euro is getting too killed.

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

...or if you have hungry crocodiles.

Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250

...which is quite likely, because they'll emerge from Moab sewers in a hungry frenzy, lured by the pints of chum blood at the base of the cracks. Best he climb cleanly.

BenCooper · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 585

i hear what everyone is saying...really, you should just go to the creek. but i have seen 5.13 sport climbers flail on 5.8 hand cracks, so maybe a morning one some easier sandstone is in order. or not. there's nothing like hopping on splitters for the first time and seeing what happens...you might have to yell at him to stop liebacking though :)

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

if they are flailing on a 5.8 hand crack, they aren't 5.13 climbers. no matter what they try to tell themselves...

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036
slim wrote:if they are flailing on a 5.8 hand crack, they aren't 5.13 climbers. no matter what they try to tell themselves...
Apples and oranges.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

but both fruit.

Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036
slim wrote:but both fruit.
Good point.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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