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Best Intentions  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 175'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
New Route: Yes
Season: Three season
Page Views: 151
Submitted By: ace 14 on Aug 12, 2014

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There are two cruxes on this route. Both are within a short distance of each other about right in the middle of the climb. The cracks in the dihedral begin to flare outward, making gear placement and secure handholds a challenge. However footholds are adequate all the way up the climb, mostly without looking too hard. Make sure to have placed two pieces of gear in the dihedral as rain often keeps the insides of these cracks wet. Overall, this route is truly worth the time.


This route is located on the far left side of McGregor slab right outside of Estes Park (CO). To get there from Estes Park, take US 36 for five miles until you get to the Fall River visitor center. If you have hit the Fall River entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park, you have gone to far. Once turned around about three minutes down the road, it's the large complex on the driver's right. Park here.Once parked, walk across the street to the entrance to Della Terra Mountain Château. Hike up their entrance road until it dead ends into their parking lot. There is a trail off to the right and one to the left. From the left, follow the switchbacks until they end. Then continue up until you hit a small cliff. Next traverse left for 150 meters. Included in the second half of this is thorn bush and strange drops in the bush. Be careful and take your time!

Once at the base of McGregor, follow the crag all the way to its far left side. You'll see a boulder that has fallen against the rock in such a way that it resembles a 'lean to' shelter. Begin climbing under the dihedral. As for the route that goes to the left, I think others may have walked up a storm chute until it ends. Finally traverse right to hit McGregor.


The protection on this route is PG-13. Reason being, most if not all cams are rather shallow and there aren't any bolts. Up until the knob on to end the dihedral, the protection consists of cams from a green or purple Black Diamond C3 to a #2 Camalot, with the majority of the placements being from a double zero C3 to 0.3 Camalots. It is possible to sling the knob at the top of the dihedral, although several feet of webbing is necessary. After that is when the size of the protection increases to #1-3 Camalots. This portion of rock is not the highest of quality, although the climbing is rather simple. The last 20 or so feet is a crack that flares away from the climber, so much so that cams a not a option because they'd be too tipped out to be effective, although hexes were very beneficial on this part of the climb; however, this was the only part on the climb that I used them. The anchor is a tree about 18 or 19 inches in diameter, and most importantly living and well embedded in the rock. There are multiple slings with rap rings here that I trusted for my rappel down. A 25 foot long cordlette will allow you to build a rap three pull two anchor. In addition, there is a nice ledge at the same level as the tree. It's a nice place to set up a belay and crush some sending almonds!

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