Best Ice Climbing Gloves, Use Liners ?

i have been dreaming of upgrading to a Black Diamond Guide glove for years now, but keep putting that purchase aside and wearing what I found on clearance from Mountain Hardwear that is def not rated for extreme cold or durability. What do you wear for technical ice climbing gloves?

Also, do you use liners and size up so you can take the gloves off and still have protection?

Full disclosure: I've never used the guide glove, only tried it on. It is definitely not a technical ice climbing glove. You need to really think about the type of climbing you'll be doing, the location, temps, duration etc, then make your decisions. First off, definitely don't wear a liner glove. This will severely limit your dexterity as well as making for a lot of slop between the layers which will cause you to overgrip. Bad combination. You will most likely need a quiver of gloves. For single pitch cragging you would want a thin glove with lots of dexterity. Yes your hands will get cold but it's not for that long, suck it up an enjoy the benefits of excellent grip and dexterity. Think BD torque or anything similar. You could go cheap with mtn bike or mechanics gloves too. You'll then want a warmer belay glove. BD guides would work fine but then so would kincos or just cheap sledding gloves. If you want to climb in colder temps, think BD punishers or equivalent. These can also make good belay gloves. If you have a long approach you'll want a separate pair for that so your other pairs aren't cold, wet, or sweaty when you need them. Remember to prewarm your climbing gloves inside your jacket before you use them, makes a huge difference! Liner gloves are pretty sweet and do have their application. I really like the smartwool liners. They can be awesome to stuff in an inner pocket to keep warm and then throw on when you need maximum dexterity like when you're rigging rappels. They can also be great to climb with in warmer temps.

Heading out for a day of ice I always have at least six pairs onboard! One pair of blown out thin gloves for approach and getting crampons installed. I work at keeping my hands warm right up until launch, so avoid bare handing the crampons or gear.

Right before take-off I switch to a lead glove, for cold leads I have some OR ones that have leather palms and some light primaloft. Otherwise I do anything from a one layer " drytool " glove to BD Ice gloves. Any heavy glove should have a pre-curve, otherwise you are fighting for grip. I usually carry the BD Ice Gloves on my harness in case I do get cold, but find with good management that is really rare these days.

Once any glove gets wet I drop it in the pack as soon as possible, and go to the next pair. It's a lot of gloves this way but they last much longer.

I prefer heavier gloves to be the gauntlet style, as you sometimes have to remove them to perform some intricate task and collared gloves don't go back on so well with one hand.

If the BD Ice gloves don't cut it, I go home...I have tried on the Guide Gloves and find them too bulky.

It depends on temperature..

20 and above: Burton Pipe gloves, OR Alibi, Rab Baltro, REI soft shell

20 and below: BD Punisher X2, OR Lodestar, OR Alpine Alibi, Kinco on approach and EMS mitts for belaying.

Great topic, and helpful info ..... thanks ...... so important

I go with the same approach as Mr Stryker with one small but I believe important difference. I keep my jacket tucked into my harness and rotate the gloves by tucking them into my jacket to warm and dry them.

With the exception of a glove that gets totally soaked you are generally able to dry gloves out pretty well this way. I also generally do not wear thicker gloves except in extreme cold (I have climbed ice at -14F and it kind of sucked).

Outdoor Research Lodestar or Black Diamond Arc on lead. Black Diamond Glissade for leading ice, in colder temperatures. BD Torque for mixed. The specialty BD ice gloves all look pretty nice, too.

Outdoor Research Arete are good all-arounders, especially in the alpine, and I use them as belay gloves. They are also awesome ski gloves.

Cheap golf gloves are in vogue in Canmore for drytooling. They are inexpensive and very tacky, but have no insulation. I have tried mechanics gloves and bicycle gloves, and they are not as good as golf gloves or any of the ice/mixed specific gloves.

Spending a ton of money on fancy gloves is not worth it because they all die a fast death, but there seems to be a minimum pricepoint around $60-$80 to get a decent branded pair. Buy multiples on sale. The only exception would be extremely warm belay gloves or belay mitts. Those are worth it, especially on your first forced bivy! Ice and mixed are hard on your gloves if you're climbing every weekend. I have a drawer full of nearly dead gloves that have turned into ski touring gloves (for going uphill), summer gloves, and gloves for approach/rappel.

Do not rappel on your lead gloves, especially Arcs, since the tacky palm will wear out fast. Rappel on your ugliest old lead gloves that you have since retired from leading, or bring a specific pair for that purpose.

I will take anywhere from 3 to 6 pairs of gloves depending on the objective.

I use Outdoor Research Contact gloves and Rab Baltoro Gloves. Perhaps not the best and most versatile system, but both pairs are warm and relatively dexterous.

The BD guide glove is a ski glove. I own a pair, and I never take them ice climbing. They do not have enough flexibility or dexterity to work for ice climbing, and wil only cause you to over grip. If your looking to keep your hands very warm, as these gloves would, I would recommend the Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II. These gloves are designed for ice climbing, and are extremely warm. Don't make the mistake of trying to climb ice in gloves that are not designed for it.

Where do you climb? What is a ballpark temperature range?

On a cold day I usually bring 4 pairs - 2 lighter (CAMP Gecko Light) and 1 heavier (CAMP Gecko Heavy OR First Ascent leather gloves)- and one pair mitts for downtime.

But I climb in NH, where it might be 6 degrees F high for the day, and windy.

If it is a warm day I will just bring the 2 light pairs and switch them out at each transition.

i wouldnt call the bd guide glove a just a ski glove, more a cold weather mountaineering glove. super popular for alaska climbers. liner is also gore tex which is awesome for cooking and stuff around camp. see profile pic.

most definitely not a glove for dexterity or ice cragging though.

yeah, temperature really makes the difference. I have climbed in -30F... friggin miserable. had probably about 5 pairs of gloves with me but ended up climbing in my down mitts. Generally though, ill just carry fleece liners to climb in, and a nice warm mitt to belay in.

Excellent replies by everyone, thank you all for the detailed info. None of the retailers here in Kansas stock such wonderous gloves. I was finally able to try on the BD Guide last year at our new REI, and the fit was amazing.

I am planning a Colorado excursion in December hopefully. Anyone with weekend availability and an extra set of tech axes that wants to get out should Pm me, I would really appreciate it. I teach climbing and survival locally and in AR, along with basic mountaineering skills, but have yet to hit serious winter alpine. I have all other gear necessary, along with basic rescue skills. ShOuT!

What retailer in CO do u recommend for trying a wide range of the above gloves on? I love the mothership REI in Denver, and Neptune, and Chalet. Best selection? Thanks.

Faulted Geologist

Oooh, also, anyone with a drawer of busted ass gloves that wants to thin out a few pairs, I would pay shipping and maybe a small handling charge to get some to work with. I can set my wife to stitching some up in between her thousand other projects.

I may even be able to trade a fine merino baby alpaca hand knitted qnd naturally dyed beanie for some nicer ones. Find the etsy link at:
www.ecowoolguild.net