This has 2 short pitches (or one very long pitch) of juggy, protectable fun. It would make a fine early lead for the aspiring tradster - there are many options for pro. The lower section is surprisingly steep, and the upper section flirts with exposure.
P1. The lower face offers a range of variations, from 5.1-3 on the right (west) to 5.4-5 on the left. There is even a way to start by pulling onto a bit of a bulge/overhang in the middle (5.5?). All lines are characterized by deep jugs and odd huecos. Climb either to the 2-bolt anchor (above the most obvious line, on the left) or to the high point of the lower section, where you can sling the horn.
P2. Engage the arete of the upper section. The easier start is on the west side, and the steeper, spicier start is on the arete itself. Follow the arete to the top, stepping out over the NE face as desired (cleaner climbing, nice exposure; you're climbing right above the face containing Takin' it Easy
). Belay at the anchor bolts on the summit (shared anchor with Takin' it Easy
The lower pitch goes up the middle/left of the lower section of the Fourth Triangle. The upper pitch follows the arete of the upper section.
Light trad rack-- small to medium-sized cams. Note that many placements on the lower section are deeply incut rails-- your cam stems may be sticking straight up. This would actually be a great pitch for someone who owned big-sized tri-cams...
Jake Waples leads the lower pitch of Best Hamster ...
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the 1st pitch, basically the cente...
BETA PHOTO: The second pitch.
By Jay Eggleston
Feb 15, 2016
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
This is a fun route but like others in the area it is plagued by lots of lichen. It really needs a good brushing. I did the middle start of the first pitch and it is about 5.6 in difficulty but, only for one move. Not a bad outing for an easy route and there are lots of places to put protection.