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Best Crampons for Scarpa Rebel Pro's

Original Post
Nick W · · Orford, NH · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 40

Just picked up a pair of these - they seem pretty incredible but I haven't climbed in them yet - and also wonder what the tight toe box will feel like on long approaches and descents....

Got them for minimalist alpine climbing, long approaches and summer mountaineering, but since I am becoming a wimp and don't like climbing brittle ice when its below zero any more (and global warming seems to be in full effect in the NE) - I think they might become my ice climbing boots as well.

Some questions:

1) They are pretty flexible and I was hoping my older pair of Grivel Rambo's would make them great on vertical ice - but the toe welts on theses boots are so small and recessed, that the front and secondary points do not extend far enough beyond the edge of the boot even when the toe bail and mono-point are maxed out. Is there a particular crampon people have found to be well suited for these boots - with adequately positioned front and secondary points and also a narrow asymmetrical toe bail?

2) Has anyone used a non-rigid crampon with these boots for vertical ice? How do they perform?

3) I'm looking for a lightweight steel, flexible dual-point crampon that will fit well on both these boots, and my Dynafit TLT 5's for ski mountaineering, and both technical and non technical mountaineering - something comfortable for lower angle glacier walking, but that can also climb vertical terrain if needed? Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Nick

Mike Hasse · · New York, NY · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 365

Black Diamond Sabretooths, Grivel G12s, and Petzl Sarkens would seem to be your top choices. These crampons will work well on both the Rebel Pros and on your TLT 5s, and you can use them for general mountaineering or vertical ice. The Sabretooths are perhaps the best general mountaineering and the Sarkens are perhaps the best on vertical ice. The G12s are decent at both.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

1. Ueli Steck uses Petzl Dart with his so they are probably better suited to petzl crampons so i would go for the lynx because it's the most versatile.
2. I flexible crampons are going to be the limiter not the boot they have been used plenty on lower angle stuff, Steve House used some flexible crampons on his assent up Nanga Parbat which is the largest technical face in the world so flexible crampons shouldn't pop off at a moments notice, that being said both of your boots are so rigid a flexible crampon would be pointless.
3. As i said earlier the lynx would be your best bet but if your really set on them being flexible the grivel G12 would be your next bet bet (The new classic binding should eliminate any issues you have with fit).
Not sure why you want a flexible crampon I personally think you would be better with a rigid crampon, but hey i did my best. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

jselwyn · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 40

I've used BD cyborg pros on mine the last 2 seasons for lots of WI5 and mixed. Great boots. Had to get the small toe bail from BD. No problems.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Rambos and Rebels o my!

Here's a shot of my size 45.5 Rebels with a new pair of Rambo 4s. I got a good fit. The crampons don't slide at all. I have the front bails set in the middle hole and the rears set in the next hole from the rear most holes of the crampon.

let me know if you need anything else.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Here's a shot of the Rambos offset. It seems like a solid fit, maybe more so than above.

Offset bails

Nick W · · Orford, NH · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 40

Cool. Thanks for the replies. I've been considering the Lynx, Sarken and Cyborg. gonna head over to OGE tomorrow and will try a few out now that I have some opinions.

BTW I have the older Rambos and the front and srcondary points don't seem to extend as far as yours.....

coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

I would think that if one is spending the extra $$ for ultralight and very technical ice boots, one would pair them with the same, i.e. G20, G22, Dart, Dartwin.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Mine are paired with Cassin Bladerunners.. When I get them back from recall :(

Nick W · · Orford, NH · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 40

Got the boots for a steal at under $300 - but yeah I agree....either Dartwins or G22's.

Anyone have any opinions of the two?

TheIceManCometh · · Albany, NY · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 621

I paired my Rebel Pros with Dartwins. Like the previous post, I had to get the small BD toe bail. Climbed all my vertical ice with that combo last year. Love the reduction in weight.

See the following picture. The front boot in this picture has the small BD bail and the back boot has the Petzl bail. I've since cut off the toe strap on the BD bail with tin snips.

BTW, here's a good article from Dane on crampon fit

The front boot in this picture has the BD bail and the back boot has the std Petzl bail.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Bill Kirby wrote:Here's a shot of the Rambos offset. It seems like a solid fit, maybe more so than above.
How do they fit with those Fangs?
coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

I would think they should be orange if color matters so...... Petzl or Cassin?

Emmett Lyman · · Stoneham, MA (Boston burbs) · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 480

I've got Lynx on my Rebel Ultras going into their 3rd season. Fit is really good. They also work well with my Maestrale RS AT boots.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Ray Pinpillage wrote: How do they fit with those Fangs?
Foot Fangs fit pretty good on every boot I've tried. They're a PITA to adjust though. Foot Fangs climb way better than I first thought. Like standing on a ledge!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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