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Dec 6, 2011
From Boulder
Joined Feb 25, 2006
565 points
Dec 6, 2011
Many have already been stated and my list is Cali-centric, but here goes:
Speed of Life, Tioga Pass
Butterballs, Yosemite
Red Zinger, Yosemite
Take any crack pitch on Sunspot or Positive Vibrations
Serenity-Sons (maybe best 5.10 multipitch crack route anywhere?)

Too many to list in the Creek...
Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2006
2,260 points
Dec 6, 2011
1. Japanese Gardens, Index, WA (Refering to linking pitch 1&2)
2. New Traditionalist, New River, WV
3. Terminator, Oak Creek, AZ
4. Critic's Choice, Indian creek, UT
5. Black Angel, Tuolumne, Ca (want this in my back yard)

1. Freeway, squamish, BC
2. Sunspot Dihedral, Bridgeport, CA
3. Astroman, Yos, Ca
4. Silk Road, Calavaras, Ca
5. West Face of El Cap, Yos, Ca (wish I could do harder El CAPS)
6. Alaska Highway, Squamish, Ca (Prolly better if linked with the calling)

All of these routes have a good variety of different styles and pure quality crack.
Abel Jones
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 24, 2010
155 points
Dec 6, 2011
Lifetime goal -- print out this thread and hit the road... Rich Farnham
Joined Aug 21, 2002
203 points
Dec 6, 2011
Wunsch's Dihedral Dusty
From Fort Collins
Joined Apr 28, 2008
165 points
Dec 12, 2011
For me
Single Pitch
Terminator- oak creek, Az...
Lifeline* and Red Planet*-Sedona, Az
Optimator* and Learning to Fly*- Indian Creek

Shangrila- Sedona, Az
Alaskan Highway-Squamish
Rostrum (it's ok compared to Shangrila)-Yosemite

The star denotes routes I've been working on but have not gotten clean

I'm still looking for the crack that is nirvana
chuck claude
From Flagstaff, Az
Joined Jul 24, 2006
140 points
Dec 12, 2011
Damn all of you that listed great cracks that are out of reach for my ability. thecornyman
From Oakland, CA
Joined May 18, 2010
65 points
Feb 23, 2012
excuse station, reservior wall indian creek
steven carruthers memorial, sacred cow wall indian creek
mexican creek, little cottonwood cayon
gold rush, trout creek
brian hess
From Logan, Utah
Joined Jan 13, 2009
30 points
Mar 6, 2012
Jtree has some good easier cracks..Lighting bolt crack Zeke6
From Akron, Ohio
Joined Feb 6, 2011
0 points
Mar 6, 2012
Center route-Cynicle Pinicle. In the Splat. Clifford Mallory
From Casper WY
Joined Oct 31, 2010
10 points
Mar 6, 2012
Don't forget the Southeast. You some roofs or multiple tiers. Add another dimension to your crack climbing. American Dankster
From Chattanooga
Joined May 28, 2010
275 points
Mar 22, 2012
Hands down, Shune's Buttress in Zion. Upper crux pitch is a lightning bolt splitter starting with yellow aliens and ending in a few moves of hands with 700 feet of clean air below. Kevin Volkening
Joined Apr 3, 2011
125 points
Mar 23, 2012
Yosemite: Astroman, Rostrum, Steck-Salathe
Squamish: Grand wall, Freeway
Index: Godzilla, Japanese Gardens, Thin Fingers
Josh: The Flake
Suicide/Tahquiz: The Vampire
Joined Apr 24, 2009
59 points
Mar 23, 2012
Hard to believe that nobody has mentioned The Line at Lover's Leap, or Pear Buttress at Lumpy...two great routes for us mere mortals.

I climbed The Line ('was dragged up' is more like it) on my very first day of climbing...there are probably still pieces of my skin up there somewhere.
John Korfmacher
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2004
100 points
Mar 23, 2012
Kevin Volkening wrote:
Hands down, Shune's Buttress in Zion. Upper crux pitch is a lightning bolt splitter starting with yellow aliens and ending in a few moves of hands with 700 feet of clean air below.

+1, Try, like, 200 feet of splitter hands, preceded by 100 feet of splitter thin hands, preceded by 75 feet of splitter fingers... oh good gracious.
ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Joined Jul 10, 2008
535 points
Mar 23, 2012

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ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Joined Jul 10, 2008
535 points
Mar 23, 2012
Jon Moen wrote:
White Knight and Drop, Fly, or Die at the Spider's Web, Adks, NY

Hell yes!

In addition to that, "Thin Fingers" and "Godzilla" at Index, and "Resistance" / "Persistence" at Lost City in the Gunks.
Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Joined Dec 16, 2006
1,955 points
Apr 6, 2012
Veedauvoo - Horns Mother and Left Torpedo Tube
Indian Creek - Big Guy and Low Cholestrol
South Platte - Prairie Dog Crematorium
Potash Road - Offwidths are Beautiful

Yep all are off widths!!!!
Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
30 points
Apr 6, 2012
Godzilla, P2 of City Park, and the stoutest 10d anywhere, Sloe Children. Every pitch is progressively harder and classic at the grade. Index is my favorite crag, can't wait to camp out there this summer.

If you don't mind cleaning moss there are plenty of classics that don't get done often enough.
Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
165 points
Apr 7, 2012
Damn, there are some good ones on here. I gotta add the upper pitches of Outer Space in Leavenworth, WA. Splitter hand crack and enough chicken heads that your feet don't hurt by the end of it. Trever W.
Joined Nov 17, 2009
0 points
Apr 7, 2012
Gotta say, the third pitch of Turfspreader, on the Cynical is a really gorgeous, perfect 5.8+ in a beautiful spot. Joe Huggins
From Grand Junction
Joined Oct 4, 2001
0 points
Apr 7, 2012

.. At least it was the most beautiful crack I hav ever *seen* BY FAR!! Blows rostrum and nose outta the water. Never ending fingers in beautiful rock and location.

Even without touching the route absolutely no contest. Go take a look and u will agree. Unfortunately I was training for speed climbing and rapped then jugged the entire route LOL!

Favorite single pitch crack - nine lives@ cat wall (indian creek)
From Bellingham, WA
Joined Feb 4, 2007
85 points
Apr 7, 2012
Strate Raza that hangs out in the Squire Lounge has got some sheeze that will blow your mentalz matt davies
Joined Mar 9, 2007
0 points
Apr 7, 2012
I thought I'd replied to this already, but I guess not.

Camhead has already listed the best cracks that I've fallen off of, and the rest of you have listed a lot that would be on my list. Indian Creek, The Needles and The Spiders Web in the ADKs are the best crack venues I've seen.

A few routes that are not on the list:

The Womb, Looking Glass
Shredded Wheat, Rumbling Bald
Burning Calves, New River Gorge
Spiderwand, New River Gorge
Rod Serling Crack, NRG
Welcome to Beauty, NRG
Pigs on the Wing, Indian Creek (too many at IC to list)
Fine Jade, Castle Valley
N. Face of Castleton, CValley
Hospital Corner, Lover's Leap
Tombstone Terror, LLeap
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,205 points
Jun 22, 2012
Upper pitches of Outer Space, Leavenworth, WA
The Line, Tahoe, CA
Hospital Corner, Tahoe, CA
Fisticuffs, JTree, CA
Funky Bolt, City of Rocks, ID
Craig Randleman
From Phoenix, AZ
Joined Sep 21, 2007
195 points

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