REI Community
The Middle Ages
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arbalest T 
Bertilak T 
Gnarnian Renaissance T 
Green Knight T 
Morning Star T 
Trebuchet T 
Two Handed Flail T 
White Hawk T 

Bertilak 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: D.Mabe
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 687
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Oct 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Darren Mabe beginning the crux of Bertilak on the ...

Description 

Lady Bertilak was used as a tool of seduction to test Sir Gawain's purity and strength (wiki). This long left-trending crack system may test your stamina as it progressively gets more difficult until an overhanging crux near the top.

First half is a good warm up. Start with a wide chockstoned crack above a bush on a good ledge and step into a stunning black/orange stembox (5.9). Continue in a left facing dihedral with nice hand crack to a stance rest (5.7). A bit of suspect rock lies above as the finger-crack system steadily leans to the left (5.10) The crack thins as you negotiate some exposed moves up to and over the steep bulge(5.11). Heroic climbing and long pitch!

Location 

Locate the downed tree on the rim near the center of the north side. Past the west end of the tree is the top of Bertilak. A tall leaning dead tree (see beta photo) is also a great landmark. Aim the rappel towards the east of the top of the route (almost in the gully between it and Edge of an Age), to be directly over the belay ledge, as the route steadily leans left.

Protection 

A good top anchor consists of a #3 and #3.5 camalot or equivalent, and the belay takes small gear such as micro cam and small nut.

Bertilak rack: micro cams, stoppers, (2-3)#.3-#.75C4, (2)#1-#2C4, and (1)#3C4. lots of runners for the first half. Helmets recommended as there are a couple short sections of suspect rock, trad lightly.


Photos of Bertilak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the seductive Bertilak.  white arrow shows tree la...
BETA PHOTO: the seductive Bertilak. white arrow shows tree la...
Rock Climbing Photo: Darren Mabe seduced on the FA of Bertilak, Oct 201...
Darren Mabe seduced on the FA of Bertilak, Oct 201...
Rock Climbing Photo: morning FA of Bertilak. Into the goods. Photo: Wad...
morning FA of Bertilak. Into the goods. Photo: Wad...
Rock Climbing Photo: The top half of the route, including the gorgeous ...
The top half of the route, including the gorgeous ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping past the headwall before the FA
Rapping past the headwall before the FA

Comments on Bertilak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 13, 2014

Overhanging splitter finger crack through the headwall at very honest 5.11?!

This route is so money and it doesn't even know it.
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 18, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Very Fun. Bring lots of small cams.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About