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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Gordie Small, Brian Norris 1970. FFA: Peter Croft, 1979
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: geoff georges on Oct 1, 2014

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underrated excellent route

Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>


This looked good, and a local said it was 12a, but could be A0 at the bolt and there were folks on all other stuff so I had to try it. The 11d rating was given by Peter Croft. I tried to free it and fell trying to reach the bolt. Fun and interesting climbing mostly in the 10a/b range.It is a shallow right facing corner. The route leaves the corner heading toward a bolt that is hard to reach. Good face holds after gaining the bolt and left to anchor.


left of Crescent crack and right of Hand Jive.


standard rack to 2". there are some committing moves on small gear, have extra small cams. If you want to aid to the bolt you may want a yellow alien for the pocket before the 2nd bolt, it would also be the only hold to reach the bolt if freeing the move. I missed the first bolt. A good rap anchor up and left after leaving the corner and traversing left.

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By Tim Bonnell
Aug 28, 2015

This is a very good route that can be climbed at 10c by traversing left past a bolt at about 15m to reach a finger crack.

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