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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Malamute
> Lower (CLOSED*)
Berrycup (CLOSED)
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Lower (CLOSED*)
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Berrycup (CLOSED) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Caboose (CLOSED) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Clean Crack (CLOSED) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crescent Crack (CLOSED) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Damascus Steel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hand Jive (CLOSED) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Penguins in Bondage (CLOSED) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Gordie Small, Brian Norris 1970. FFA: Peter Croft, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 1,098 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Oct 1, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This looked good, and a local said it was 12a, but could be A0 at the bolt and there were folks on all other stuff so I had to try it. The 11d rating was given by Peter Croft. I tried to free it and fell trying to reach the bolt. Fun and interesting climbing mostly in the 10a/b range.It is a shallow right facing corner. The route leaves the corner heading toward a bolt that is hard to reach. Good face holds after gaining the bolt and left to anchor.
Protection
standard rack to 2". there are some committing moves on small gear, have extra small cams. If you want to aid to the bolt you may want a yellow alien for the pocket before the 2nd bolt, it would also be the only hold to reach the bolt if freeing the move. I missed the first bolt. A good rap anchor up and left after leaving the corner and traversing left.
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